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October 10, 2009

Travel Brantford: The Bodega Inn, the Bell Homestead and the Mohawk Chapel

My second day in Brantford, was an absolutely action-packed day. I got going early at about 8 am when I headed downstairs and requested Jennifer, the manager at The Bodega Inn, to give me a tour of this unique boutique hotel. Before we started the tour of the hotel, Jennifer took me right outside to Harmony Square, Brantford’s favourite gathering spot. All sorts of events and programs happen here: during the winter there is free family skating while the summer months offer lots of diverse entertainment: the Brantford Jazz Festival, Yoga in the Square, Chess in the Square as well as Movies in the Square where the locals can gather to watch free movies outdoors under the stars. There is always something happening on Harmony Square.


Brantford's Harmony Square, just after the rain stopped

Across the street from The Bodega Inn is the historic Sanderson Centre for the Performing Arts, Brantford’s beautifully restored 1125 seat heritage theatre. The Brantford Arts Block, a community arts centre housed in the historic Victorian-era Temple Building is next door to the theatre, followed by the Beaux-Arts style sandstone Federal Building. The Bodega Inn is embedded right in the middle of these outstanding heritage buildings. On the main floor of the hotel is a stylish Coffee Culture café that also serves as the breakfast venue for the hotel guests.


Downtown Brantford, with the Bodega Inn on the left

Jennifer then took me into the lobby of the hotel where I studied a photo book that talked about the history of this area. A historic inn from the late 1800s had been located here, but it burnt down in 1962 and had to be demolished. The current building is about two years old, but the architectural style was inspired by the Victorian area.


The cool lobby of the Bodega Inn

Today’s Bodega Inn features eighteen very large hotel rooms, all equipped with a full kitchen and dining area. Eleven long-stay apartments are available as well. Every hotel room has a unique décor: all rooms on the second floor of the hotel are decorated in an African theme, the third floor rooms are Asian inspired, while the fourth floor features a series of European-inspired rooms.


The mural of the Tower Bridge in the British Room

Leaving the lobby behind, we took the elevator to see some of the hotel rooms. Jennifer showed me two rooms on the hotel’s European-themed third floor: the British Room and the Italian Room. The highlight of the British Room was a giant mural of the Tower Bridge in London. Other European inspired rooms are titled Germany, France, Italy, Greece and Spain. Like all the other rooms at the Bodega Inn, every single room is unique.


The huge colourful mural in the conference room of the Bodega Inn

Our next stop was a large meeting room that was flooded with natural daylight and enhanced by colourful murals that cover two large walls and depict the heritage buildings of Brantford. The view over Harmony Square from the meeting room’s four large windows is spectacular. Finally, I also got to see a spacious attractive room on the African-themed second floor.


Getting ready for breakfast at Coffee Culture

Now it was time for breakfast and my friend and I headed next door to the Coffee Culture café where I enjoyed an egg and cheese bagel. Melissa, our local tourism expert, came to pick us up right on time at 9:30 for our whirlwind tour of some of Brantford’s major sights. We started with the Bell Homestead, a National Historic Site. It is the home of Alexander Graham Bell and played an important role in the invention of the telephone.


The Bell Homestead, one of Brantford's most important historic sites

The Bell Homestead is located on the banks of the Grand River in the attractive Tutela Heights neighbourhood of Brantford. It consists of the actual home of the Bell family who settled in this farmhouse when they came to Canada from Scotland in 1870; they lived here until 1881. This house provided the inspirational background for Alexander Graham Bell’s invention of the telephone. Next door is the Henderson Home, the house of Reverend Thomas Henderson, a good friend of the Bell family, which happens to be the location of the first business office of the Bell Telephone Company of Canada.


Living and dining room at the Bell Homestead

Our guide showed us through all the rooms and explained important milestones in the personal history of Alexander Graham Bell and his family. This working 10-acre farm also illustrates life in the second half of the nineteenth century, with its finely decorated cast-iron stoves, its surprisingly modern looking bathroom, its authentic Victorian-era kitchen and the associated manual washing machine and other household equipment.


"Happy Thought" - detail of cast iron stove at the Bell Homestead

When the Bell family moved here, they had to look after 60 to 70 farm animals as well as a garden and orchard. Various versions of Alexander Graham Bell’s telephones are displayed in different rooms, including a replica of the telephone that was used for the first long-distance phone call between Brantford and Paris, Ontario, in August of 1876.


Some of the telephone equipment that Alexander Graham Bell invented

The Henderson Home was Canada’s first telephone business office. Originally located in downtown Brantford it was moved to this location in 1969. Various rooms document the evolution of the telephone: an 1890 long distance telephone, a wall phone from 1907, a 1924 dial telephone, as well as transatlantic phone cables from the early 20th century. Another room in the Henderson Home features an 1890s telephone exchange; visitors can also inspect a telephone booth from the early 1900s. A payphone from 1961 moves us up in the chronological history of telephone technology.


Replica of an 1890s telephone exchange

Circling back through the leafy environs of Tutela Heights, with its old stately houses that front the Grand River, we continued our drive to Her Majesty’s Royal Chapel of the Mohawks, better known as the Mohawk Chapel. Ontario’s oldest church played an important role in the native history of this area. The church was built in 1785 by the British Crown and given to the Mohawk Indians in appreciation of their support during the American Revolution. Mohawk leader Joseph Brant, whose native name was Thayendanegea, had led Mohawk and colonial Loyalists against American revolutionaries on the New York frontier. After the war was finished, Brant relocated from the Mohawk Valley to establish a reserve on the Grand River in 1784.


The Mohawk Chapel

The Mohawk Chapel is one of only two royal chapels in Canada and was built in 1785. The original entrance of the church faced east, towards a canoe landing site on the Grand River, but was later relocated to the west side of the building. The building itself is a simple wood structure covered with white wooden cladding. The interior of the church is covered in pine and features eight stained glass windows that were installed between 1959 and 1962 and depict scenes of the Six Nation’s native history.


Tomb of Joseph Brant and his son John Brant

Audrey, the curator of the church, gave us an introduction to Brantford’s native history and pointed out the graves of important native personalities such as Susan Hardy, the grand-daughter of Joseph Brant’s sister Molly. Joseph Brant himself and his son John are also entombed in the churchyard of the Mohawk Chapel. Next to this tomb there is a boulder, a memorial to native poetess Pauline Johnson. Many of the gravestones in the cemetery surrounding the church commemorate people who passed away in the first half of the 19th cemetery. Audrey explained that archeologists have been studying the history of the cemetery.


Memorial to native poetess Pauline Johson

East of the church is a pathway to an observation deck that overlooks the ox-bow in the Grand River, the historic disembarking site of the native people when they came to attend church services in their canoes. An elevated flood control dyke now stands where the Grand River used to flow. By 1788 there was a Mohawk community of about 400 people, founded by Joseph Brant, which later evolved into Brantford. The Mohawk Chapel is the only remains of this Mohawk village.

It was getting close to mid-day now, so we moved on to our next destination: the Brantford Farmers’ Market whose history goes all the way back to 1848.


Useful Links:

Tourism Brantford - for all the area information you need
Our Flickr Album with the Brantford photo collection
The Bell Homestead
The Mohawk Chapel


Related Articles:

"Travel Brantford: A perfect staycation begins - the Glenhyrst Art Gallery, dinner at Café Andreou and an evening at the Sanderson Centre for Performing Arts"
"Travel Brantford: A tour of the Bodega Inn, the Bell Homestead and the Mohawk Chapel"
"Travel Brantford: The Brantford Farmer's Market, Harmony Square, a bike ride by the Grand River & a visit to the Station Coffee House and Gallery"
"Travel Brantford: Exploring Paris, pewter art and great hospitality in St. George"
"Travel Brantford: A Grand River experience, a Blue Dog, a sculpture garden and a great last view over the Grand River"

Related Travel Videos:


A look at downtown Brantford and Harmony Square


Third floor at the Bodega Inn


The Great Britain room on the fourth floor of the Bodega Inn

 
Meeting room at the Bodega Inn with colourful murals


Kitchen in the Bell Homestead



Tour of the Bell Homestead - where the telephone was invented


The Henderson House at the Bell Homestead


Touring the upstairs of the Bell Homestead


Driving through Tutela Heights


Grounds of the Mohawk Chapel


Front of the Mohawk Chapel

 

 

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