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October 11, 2009

Brantford Travel: A Grand River Experience, a Blue Dog, a Sculpture Garden & a Great View over the Valley

After a delectable and nourishing vegetarian omelette at the Two Roses Bed and Breakfast in St. George, Ontario, we were ready to start our third and final day of our Brantford-area getaway. Melissa Stephens, our local tourism expert, picked us up and drove us to the quaint and historic town of Paris where we were about to embark on our Grand River adventure.


A brilliant October morning in Paris, Ontario

She introduced us to Jamie Kent, owner of Grand Experiences, an award-winning outdoor adventure company. After a successful management career in the paint and chemicals industry, Jamie started his company about 10 years ago with the full support of his family. Today Grand Experiences has customers from all over the world, including Europe, Australia, Asia and Africa.


Jamie Kent from Grand Experiences

After watching a safety video I took a walk through the store with Jamie and learned about all the different outdoor adventures that Grand Experiences offers. Adventures on the river include rafting, canoeing and kayaking. Due to its 20 feet per mile elevation drop, the nearby Nith River even offers some challenging white-water experiences with its class 2 and 3 rapids. Guests can choose fully outfitted multi-day trips with expert guides or they can simply rent a kayak for the afternoon with the comfort of lessons and a shuttle service.


All sorts of outdoor gear at Grand Experiences

Aboriginal travel experiences are a specialty at Grand Experiences, where curious adventurers can travel down the Grand River with a guide in a war canoe for 12 people. Travel groups can stay overnight on an island and enjoy native story-telling around a campfire. For those who prefer to stay on land, Jamie’s company also offers guided hikes, mountain biking and fishing as well as snow-shoeing in the winter.


Getting ready for our boat trip down the Grand River

Corporate team building events, customized programs such as training in the “True Colors” personality temperament theory, as well as special programs for school groups and even patients of mental hospitals, round out the offerings available at Jamie Kent’s company. With its commitment to safety and customer service, Grand Experiences is a premier outdoor adventure company that has won many local tourism awards.


All sorts of canoes and kayaks await adventurous visitors

We started our Grand River tour in the historic town of Paris, which was first settled in 1829 and officially became incorporated as a town in 1850. The name of the town stems from “plaster of Paris”, referring to the once plentiful gypsum deposits that were mined here in the first half of the 19th century.


The Victorian architecture of Paris, viewed from the Grand River

Jamie explained that the town is particularly well-known for its Victorian cobblestone architecture which is highlighted by several unique historic buildings that are constructed from small rounded river stones. On August 10, 1876, Paris became famous as the site of the first “long-distance” telephone call, made by the father of Alexander Graham Bell, from downtown Brantford. During the late Victorian era Paris became an industrial powerhouse due to the numerous textile manufacturing plants. In the early 1900s, Paris was the largest textile manufacturing centre in the British Empire. Many of the remaining buildings from this era have today been converted into lofts and condominiums.


Impressive architecture in Paris, Ontario

Our river guide turned out to be an expert on the fauna and the flora of the Grand River area. As the largest river in Southwestern Ontario, the Grand has particular ecological significance as a spawning ground for many different types of cold water and warm water fish. Anglers enjoy plentiful stocks of walleye, pike, brown trout and rainbow trout, as well as small mouth and large mouth bass. In all about 80 species of fish call the Grand River home, and the section surrounding Paris has been designated “exceptional waters” due to its role as a spawning ground. Special fishing regulations apply here: anglers must abide by the catch-and-release rules.


The Grand River - a special habitat for many plant and animal species

Blessed with a milder climate than the rest of Canada, Southwestern Ontario also is an environment for unique plant life. Jamie explained that the area features some of the last vestiges of the Carolinian forest, a mostly deciduous forest area that stretches from as far south as the Carolinas to southwestern Ontario. Southern tree species such as Kentucky coffee, sassafras, tulip trees, black willows and sycamore trees that cannot be found elsewhere in Canada grow in this area and support a wide range of mammals and birds.


Nature lovers enjoy coming to the Grand River

The biodiversity among the bird population is also significant, with orioles, blue herons, bald eagles and osprey standing out. Southwestern Ontario has Canada’s most diverse eco-system in terms of trees, plants, animals and birds. Half of all of Canada’s bird species can be found here. A wide range of mammals lives here as well, from badgers, white-tailed deer, foxes and coyotes to beavers, otters and minks.


Victorian architecture in Paris, Ontario

Jamie put the area into context and explained that it has historically been fairly thinly populated, and the surrounding countryside is mostly used for agricultural purposes. I also learned that the Grand River is a designated heritage river due to its historic significance. Our river guide explained that for more than 200 years, people of different backgrounds have lived together here in harmony: from the early Iroquois settlers who came here in the late 1700s after the American Revolution, to the Mennonites in the upper Grand River near Elora and St. Jacobs, the Scottish settlers of Fergus, the German immigrant populations of Kitchener and Waterloo, and the residents of Brantford, most of whom are of English heritage, the human history of this area is diverse as well.


Historic architecture in Paris

The fall colours were just starting to come in during this early October weekend, and we enjoyed the quiet tranquility of the Grand River. Jamie pointed out the primitive plaster mining shafts in the riverbank which have been abandoned for more than 150 years now. Ospreys were soaring high overhead on this beautiful day.


The fall colours are starting to come in

We slowly floated by local sights such as the remains of the corduroy road, a timber log roadway that was used more than a century ago to transport the plaster alongside the river. Another major sight is Sarah’s Island, a long island that is named after a native woman who made her home here during the summer months for many years until she passed away in the late 1990s. We also passed underneath the bridges of Highway 403, a fairly recently constructed highway that finally made this region more accessible to travelers from Toronto, Detroit and Buffalo.


Highway 403 made this area more accessible

After about two hours we had finally reached our destination, the Brant Conservation Area, where our local tourist expert Melissa picked us up. We thanked Jamie for this interesting and informative journey down the historic Grand River. Chilled to the bone, Melissa took us to a local café in Brantford called Blue Dog Coffee Roasters.


Blue Dog Coffee Roasters in Brantford: time for lunch!

We finally warmed up with a nice lunch and Megan, one of the café’s employees, took me on a tour. The menu features a wide variety of breakfasts while the lunch and dinner selections include various salads, grilled panini sandwiches and a fresh selection of daily soups. The most stunning feature in this historic structure is the oversize portrait of a blue dog on a red background, depicting the owner’s favourite pet. Megan even showed me the upstairs meeting room which is made available for meetings to local groups free of charge.


The portrait of the Blue Dog which gave the café its name

Now strengthened by a nice lunch we continued our explorations to the historic Dufferin Avenue neighbourhood which features an impressive collection of Victorian-era mansions, many of which overlook the Grand River Valley. In the late 1800s Brantford became Canada’s third largest manufacturing centre, and the wealth of the local industrialist families can be seen in the imposing architecture in this city.


The former Cockshutt mansion - now the Glenhyrst Art Gallery

During the sunny afternoon we made one more stop at the Glenhurst Art Gallery and Gardens, originally a 1920s mansion owned by one of Brantford’s industrialist families. In 1957 Edmund Cockshutt, of the Cockshutt Plough Company, bequeathed his estate to the City of Brantford which created an impressive gallery and sculpture garden. We had already toured the mansion a couple of days ago on a very rainy day and enjoyed the architecture and art collections. Today, on this gorgeous sunny fall day, I finally had a chance to take in the scenic gardens of this complex which is often used for weddings and special events.


The sculpture garden of the Glenhyrst Art Gallery

Finally, we ended our adventures in Brantford with a phenomenal lookout over the Grand River Valley from the Brantford Golf and Country Club. Our two-and-a-half days in Brantford had come to an end and I could not believe how much we had seen and experienced. I realized that this mid-size town about an hour from Toronto offered a wide range of things to see and do. It had been the perfect destination for a weekend getaway.


A great view over the Grand River Valley


Useful Links:

Tourism Brantford - for all the area information you need
Our Flickr Album with the Brantford photo collection
Grand Experiences Canoe & Kayak Outfitters
Blue Dog Coffee Roasters
The Glenhyrst Art Gallery


Related Articles:

"Travel Brantford: A perfect staycation begins - the Glenhyrst Art Gallery, dinner at Café Andreou and an evening at the Sanderson Centre for Performing Arts"
"Travel Brantford: A tour of the Bodega Inn, the Bell Homestead and the Mohawk Chapel"
"Travel Brantford: The Brantford Farmer's Market, Harmony Square, a bike ride by the Grand River & a visit to the Station Coffee House and Gallery"
"Travel Brantford: Exploring Paris, pewter art and great hospitality in St. George"
"Travel Brantford: A Grand River experience, a Blue Dog, a sculpture garden and a great last view over the Grand River"

Related Travel Videos:


Interviewing Jamie Kent from Grand Experiences


Starting our river experience in Paris and an introduction to Paris


Discussing Paris' cobblestone architecture and history


Mile Hill - location of the old gypsum mines and freshwater springs


Looking at Five Oaks Camp, talking about overnight accommodation and fishing on the Grand River


An island in the Grand River, talking about native travel experiences, animals in the area


Looking at the old plaster mine shafts in the banks of the Grand River


Fall colours on the Grand River


The fauna and flora on the Grand River: part of the Carolinian forest


Discussing birds of prey on the Grand River


Talking about the significance of Highway 403 in the area


Discussing historic boat transportation on the Grand River


The corduroy road alongside the banks of the Grand River


The story of Sarah's Island


End of Sarah's Island with sycamore tree


Talking about Alexander Graham Bell, an avoid canoeist


Almost at the end of our journey - Brantford Golf and Country Club


Megan demonstrates the special tea pot at the Blue Dog Café


The historic mansions of Dufferin Avenue in Brantford


The Dufferin Avenue historic district of Brantford


Entering the grounds of the Glenhyrst Art Gallery


The Glenhyrst Art Gallery: Visiting the sculpture garden


A view of the Grand River Valley from the Brantford Golf & Country Club

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