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October 10, 2010

Brantford Travel: Exploring Paris and Enjoying Great Hospitality St. George

We had already seen and experienced so much on this gorgeous fall day: from Brantford’s signature sights such as the Bell Homestead and the Mohawk Chapel to the Farmers’ Market, a bike ride by the Grand River and lunch in a café / gallery that is part of Brantford’s railway station, we now continued our explorations to the historic riverside town of Paris.


Paris abounds with historic architecture

A small community with about 11,000 residents, Paris can look back on a long history. It was first settled in 1829 and officially became a town in 1850. Paris is probably most well-known for the fact that the first “long distance” telephone call was made on August 10, 1876 between Paris and downtown Brantford.


Downtown Paris, Ontario, offers many shopping opportunities

The name of the town stems from “plaster of Paris”, referring to the gypsum deposits that were mined in the area in the mid 1800s. Paris is also known as the “cobblestone capital of Canada” because it features numerous buildings that were constructed from rounded riverstones. The historic architecture and quaint main street have also earned Paris the nickname “prettiest town in Canada”.


The Café de Paris offers a great riverside patio

We strolled along the main street which was flanked on both sides by Victorian-era buildings with retail shops on the main floor. At the Café de Paris we headed inside to admire the spacious river-side terrace that is a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. Two licensed patios overlook the Grand River and beckon visitors to sit down in this bistro bar.


Viewing platform over the Grand River

From Paris we continued our country drive through the rolling hills of Brant County to stop at Robert Hall Originals, a showroom where we admired a wide variety of artistic creations made from pewter and natural stone. Robert is a master pewter smith with a big passion for collecting rocks and minerals, and he merges his passions in his artistic creations. His rock collection comes from all over the world, and his crystal specimens hail from as far away as Brazil, India, Morocco, Russia and other places.


Robert with his wife Betty in the showroom of Robert Hall Originals

The pewter ware at Robert Hall Originals features hundreds of different designs in themes such as Canadiana, Celtic and equestrian. The artist took us into his workshop to demonstrate the elaborate process of creating pewter art, which starts with the creation of clay moulds that are used to create rubber moulds which are then used in the casting process. Robert indicated that he uses about 3000 different moulds to produce his wide assortment of artistic products.


Some of the designs at Robert Hall Originals

The three-dimensional clay mould creates an impression in the rubber which is put inside a casting machine and subjected to 1.5 tons of pressure. Pewter melted at 550 degrees Fahrenheit is then poured into the casting machine and fills the cavities in the rubber mould. Once the casting is finished, the mould is allowed to cool for a brief period of time, and then the pewter objects are removed from the mould.


A pewter letter opener from Robert Hall Originals

At this raw stage all the individual cast objects must be cleaned up with a knife or a file to remove the rough edges, and from here forward they are painted and polished and all remaining sharp edges are removed. Pewter casting is a very labour-intensive process, and Robert stresses that he only uses lead-free pewter which consists of 98% tin, 2% copper, antimony and silver. This stands in contrast to many imported low-cost pewter products that could still contain lead.


Polished stone

Robert’s love for stone manifests itself in his extensive rock and mineral collection that features many colourful and intricately patterned specimens. His wife Betty says that they regularly attend large mineral shows in the United States where Robert spends hours studying different rocks and minerals. A love for the delicate patterns and textures of natural rocks and minerals has been in Robert’s blood for a long time.


Polished natural stone

The showroom also features a bead store for artists who want to make jewellery themselves where they can also purchase settings and mountings. It further showcases a variety of pewter pendants that have been made by Robert himself. Beautifully polished stones can be displayed on pewter stands to bring out their best features.


A polished agate at Robert Hall Originals

We had enjoyed our introduction to pewter casting and mineralogy and continued on to our final destination of the day: the quaint village of St. George. There we met our hosts for the night: Rene and Jose Gonzalez from the Two Roses Bed and Breakfast who have worked miracles to restore their 1860s mansion to its former glory. This Victorian jewel was going to be our home for the night.


Jose and Rene Gonzalez from the Two Roses Bed and Breakfast

Surrounded by an elevated ½ acre garden and a scenic view, the Two Roses B&B was originally a mansion that was built in 1880 by a certain Mr. Thompson, a brickmaster from Scotland. Jose, an engineer who came to Canada from Cuba many years ago, and his wife Rene, who hails from Serbia, had always dreamed of owning and operating a bed and breakfast. So after finishing their earlier careers they embarked on a search for a suitable property a few years ago and purchased this house in 2008.


Rene & Jose and their gorgeously renovated mansion

Renovations started on April 1, 2008 and after working for many weeks almost around the clock on the restoration, the Two Roses B&B opened its doors in July of 2008. Jose was primarily in charge of construction and technical issues while Rene focused on interior décor, often attending auctions and antique shops to create an authentic period property with a real Victorian touch.


The Ladies' tea room at the Two Roses B&B

Much had to be done on the property: plasterwork, woodwork and floors had to be restored; four bathrooms had to be installed; some of the rooms did not even have electrical outlets for ceiling lights; ceilings were falling down and had to be reconstructed. Rene and Jose wanted to restore their heritage property back to its original splendour without destroying what was there. They made sure that nothing was torn down.


The Gentlemen's Room

Rene spent lots of time researching authentic Victorian decorating and colour schemes to create an authentic environment. She gave me a tour of the property whose main floor includes the dining room, a gentlemen’s room and a ladies tea room in addition to the kitchen. Outside the kitchen is an attractive patio where guests can enjoy breakfast outdoors during the warmer months. Upstairs are three guest bedrooms with three luxurious bathrooms so all the guests can enjoy their privacy. The Victorian decorating theme visually ties the entire property together.


Sitting area in one of the upstairs bedrooms

Back downstairs in the kitchen, Rene and Jose indicated that their bed and breakfast guests are welcome everywhere including the kitchen. Rene is in charge of the breakfast which could include a hearty Canadian breakfast, various egg dishes, omelettes, fresh fruit and baked goods. Special dietary needs are taken into consideration and Rene will try to accommodate special requests. Special events are also frequently hosted at the Two Roses B&B: from Christmas dinners to birthday parties for up to 25 people to hosting the local bridge club a couple of times a month. It is evident that this couple thoroughly enjoys the bed and breakfast hospitality experience.


Dining Room at the Two Roses B&B

To cap off this amazing action packed day we had dinner at La Cantinella, an Italian restaurant on St. George’s main street, housed in a historic 1850s former inn. We enjoyed a tasty combination of “linguini alla puttanesca” and “gamberi al pesto”. The hosts Renato and Susanna Reale provided us with an excellent dining experience and a truly welcoming atmosphere.


Main dining room at La Cantinella

Renato actually owns a car repair business while Susanna’s original background is in the arts. Years ago they walked by the building, which was a fitness studio at the time with apartments above, and Susanna fell in love with it. She was intrigued by the building and just felt that this would be a great place for a restaurant. But the building needed a lot of work and it took the couple six years to renovate it.


La Cantinella on St. George's main street

Today it houses their restaurant on the main floor with two large guest rooms and a spacious patio while the couple turned the upstairs, which had consisted of 19 small rooms, into their private living quarters. Renato handmade the countertop for the bar from a large piece of walnut wood. With a modest smile he added that he just used a lathe, some woodworking tools and lots of elbow grease.


The Reale family: Renato, Susanna, Domenic and Alex

The entire building had to be rewired and lots of work had to be done to modernize the infrastructure of the building, including new heating and plumbing throughout. The second guestroom just opened this past week, added an extra 40 seats to the restaurant and will feature live music on a regular basis.


The new dining room at La Cantinella

Susanna is a passionate cook and very customer-oriented. She loves it when her guests have a great experience. All the pasta is made on site by Susanna and she even sells it to other restaurants. Susanna and her daughter Alex even took me a tour of the kitchen where I found out that this is truly a family business: the owners Susanna and Renato get reinforcement from daughter Alex and son Domenic, while Susanna’s mother and aunt work in the kitchen as well. Despite the hectic demands of the restaurant and the hard work, it seemed that everyone was having a great time and enjoying the hospitality experience.


Delicious food at La Cantinella

At about 11:30 pm I finally fell into my plush bed at the Two Roses B&B, absolutely exhausted from an awesome day of experiences. I reflected back on the day, hardly able to believe how much I had seen and how much I enjoyed all the places I saw and the people I met in and around Brantford. I drifted off into some much-needed sleep for another interesting day in Brantford.


Useful Links:

Tourism Brantford - for all the area information you need
Our Flickr Album with the Brantford photo collection
Robert Hall Originals
Two Roses Bed and Breakfast
La Cantinella Ristorante Italiano


Related Articles:

"Travel Brantford: A perfect staycation begins - the Glenhyrst Art Gallery, dinner at Café Andreou and an evening at the Sanderson Centre for Performing Arts"
"Travel Brantford: A tour of the Bodega Inn, the Bell Homestead and the Mohawk Chapel"
"Travel Brantford: The Brantford Farmer's Market, Harmony Square, a bike ride by the Grand River & a visit to the Station Coffee House and Gallery"
"Travel Brantford: Exploring Paris, pewter art and great hospitality in St. George"
"Travel Brantford: A Grand River experience, a Blue Dog, a sculpture garden and a great last view over the Grand River"

Related Travel Videos:

The riverside Café de Paris in Paris, Ontario

Cobblestone Common - Viewing platform with great view of Grand River in Paris, Ontario

A stroll through downtown Paris

  An interview with Robert Hall Perry from Robert Hall Originals

Demonstrating the pewter casting process

Robert Hall Originals: Processing of pewter castings with buffing machine

Delicately patterned polished stones at Robert Hall Originals

Crystal speciments at Robert Hall Originals

Driving into St. George, Ontario

Talking about the renovations at the Two Roses Bed and Breakfast

Showing the outside of the Two Roses Bed and Breakfast

  The kitchen at the Two Roses Bed and Breakfast

Gentlemen's room, Ladies tea room and upstairs bedroom with bathroom featuring claw foot tub

Discussing the details of the Gentlemen's room

The Ladies' tea room at the Two Roses B&B

Chatting with the owners of La Cantinella Ristorante Italiano

A tour through La Cantinella Ristorante, including the kitchen

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