October 6, 2006
Hello from Nova Scotia: Discovering Lunenburg
- A UNESCO World Heritage Site
A delightful rest at the Lunenburg
Inn after a very compressed and hectic day along the Lighthouse
Trail yesterday got me ready for another day of adventures.
At about 7:30 I made my downstairs in anticipation of a filling
breakfast. Sure enough, a freshly baked morning glory muffin was
served to quench my immediate hunger. I had two breakfasts to choose
from: a hot breakfast featuring poached eggs with bacon or turkey
bacon, or a cold breakfast featuring a choice of two items of either
cereal with fruit / fat-free yoghurt / fresh toast with jam or stewed
rhubarb. I opted for the cereal with fresh fruit and the stewed
rhubarb which was delicious. The breakfast at the Lunenburg
Inn was so generous I wasn’t even able to finish my entire
portion. Appropriately strengthened I was now ready for a full day
of discoveries.
Maritime life in Lunenburg
At about 8:30 I made my way on foot into the town of Lunenburg,
an extremely charming and scenic settlement that is home to about
2500 full-time residents and many thousands more during tourist
season. Lunenburg is one of Nova Scotia’s favourite travel
destinations, and for good reason. In 1995, Lunenburg was designated
a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its unique architecture
and civic design as it represents one of the best preserved examples
of a planned British colonial settlement in North America.
Restaurants along Bluenose Drive, Lunenburg's waterfront
The town was founded in 1753 and earlier inhabitants included the
Mi’kmaq Natives as well as Acadian settlers. Lunenburg was
named in honour of the Duke of Braunschweig-Lunenburg who had become
the King of England in 1727. The settlers brought in by the British
Crown were known as the foreign protestants, mostly farmers who
had been recruited from areas in the southern and central parts
of Germany, Switzerland and France. They were deliberately chosen
for their potential loyalty to the British Crown. Over the years
this farming community turned into a successful seaport and shipbuilding
centre, and even today High Liner Foods still has a fish processing
plan in town.
A look at the town from the waterfront
I strolled down to the waterfront on Bluenose Drive on a brilliant
early fall morning, with not a cloud in the sky. Several restaurants
and inns line the street on the north side, and the Fisheries Museum
of the Atlantic which houses the popular Old Fish Factory restaurant
is located on the south side of the street. The little town stretches
up from the water on a fairly steep hill with long streets running
east west, and shorter streets connecting straight up to the crest
of the hill.
Beautiful architecture in Lunenburg
This was a quiet Friday morning, and the locals and tourists alike
were still lying low. As I strolled up the hill I started to see
shop-owners who were opening their doors and putting out their merchandise
for sale. Lunenburg has a myriad of antique stores, small galleries
and craft stores, and most of the houses are in excellent repair
and colourfully painted.
The "Paddywagon" for the Old Lunenburg Jail
The town presents a very unified image of clapboard covered homes,
and the historic local architecture includes a charming range of
styles including the Cape Cod Style, Neo-Classical or Georgian homes,
a Scottish style which includes five-sided Scottish dormers, Gothic
Revival, Second Empire and Queen Ann Revival styles. A typical feature
of Lunenburg architecture is the “Lunenburg Bump” which
features a projecting Scottish dormer, also referred to as the bump.
An example of a Lunenburg Bump
Lunenburg is an extremely charming town. The centre of the town
is located near St. John’s Anglican Church, the most well
known ecclesiastical structure in town. This church was built in
1754 and gothicized in 1870 to 1875. Just recently, on Halloween
night in 2001, the church was gutted by a spectacular blaze under
mysterious circumstances. The community was dismayed, but they raised
the money and the church was rebuilt in its entirety.
The famous St. John's Anglican Chruch
Further up the hill is Lunenburg’s most prominent landmark:
the Lunenburg Academy, an elementary school for grades one to five,
is located at the top of Gallows Hill, overlooking the town. It
was built from 1894 to 1895 and each floor has six entrances, six
classrooms and six staircases connecting up to the next level.
The Lunenburg Academy, Lunenburg's most prominent landmark
From the top of the hill I walked back into the town’s centre
and came across a monumental red brick building, the town’s
courthouse and city hall. A beautiful park located on an upslope
is adjacent to city hall and just outside the building is a memorial
commemorating Norwegian soldiers that were trained here as gunners
in Lunenburg during World War II. Norway had the third-largest ocean
going merchant fleet in 1940 with 1100 ships, and when the Nazis
invaded Norway, the King and government ordered these ships to proceed
to allied ports. From 1940 to 1941 Norwegian whaling and sealing
vessels ended up in the port of Lunenburg when Norway was occupied
by the Germans. More than 1000 Norwegians were trained here for
military service at Camp Lunenburg, and many of their vessels were
converted into naval vessels and armed freighters.
St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church
Strolling further down the hill I arrived back at the waterfront
where I decided to pay a quick visit to the Fisheries
Museum of the Atlantic. Lunenburg historically was a proud shipbuilding
centre, and the world famous schooner Bluenose as well as her daughter,
the Bluenose II, were built here. The Bluenose was a fishing schooner
as well as a racing ship and was launched in Lunenburg in 1921.
Fishing schooners had become obsolete after WWII and despite efforts
to keep the Bluenose in Nova Scotia, it was sold as a freighter
in the West Indies. In 1946 finally it ran aground on a Haitian
reef.
The Lutheran Church
The Bluenose II was launched at Lunenburg in 1963 and built to original
plans by many of the same workers who had worked on the original
Bluenose. The costs of $300,000 were financed by a local family
as a marketing tool for their brewery operations in Halifax and
Saint John. As a result of her popularity, the Nova Scotia government
bought the vessel, and it has become a goodwill ambassador and symbol
of the province. The Canadian ten cent coin features the Bluenose
and the Nova Scotia license plates also feature this famous vessel.
The Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic
I entered the Fisheries
Museum and was lucky to just catch the 10 am lobster presentation
in the aquarium. A resident expert was demonstrating the various
body parts of a lobster and talking about the lifecycle of these
crusty creatures. Fortunately this specimen had its pincers tied
since it did not seem to be too happy about being included in this
presentation. The presenter went on to educate us about lobster
fishing, demonstrating the different types of lobster traps in use.
"Lobster Lore"
Following this educational presentation I went outside and set
foot on two different vessels that are permanently moored in front
of the Fisheries Museum. The Theresa E. Connor is a schooner that
was built in Lunenburg in 1938 and fishing the banks for 26 years
until technology changed from hook and line fishing to fishing with
big trawler nets.
On the deck of the Theresa E. Schooner
The Cape Sable, built in 1962 in Leiden, Holland, is anchored right
next to the Theresa O’Connor. It is a steel-hulled side trawler,
the generation of boats that replaced the old-style schooners. The
Cape Sable retired from service in 1982 and now teaches visitors
about the lifestyle of fishermen.
Below-deck accommodation for the fishermen
I then went inside the museum which features a myriad of displays
about the fishing industry on three different levels. The second
floor holds a Fishermen’s Memorial room, paying tribute to
all the fishermen who lost their lives at sea. Fishing is one of
the most dangerous occupations and many fishermen have made the
ultimate sacrifice.
A view of Lunenburg
The first floor features the Aquarium, the Gift Shop as well as
a Fish Demonstration Room, the Hall of Inshore fisheries, a Marine
Engine Display, an exhibit about Whaling and Whales as well as a
Boatbuilding Shop. The Second Floor holds the Bank Fishery Age of
Sail Exhibit as well as a Vessel Gallery and the afore-mentioned
Fishermen’s Memorial Room.
Rum-running, a dangerous occupation
The Third Floor has an exhibit on Rum Runners, individuals who
daringly smuggled alcoholic beverages during the prohibition years
from 1920 to 1933. Other exhibits on businesses related to the fishing
industry and life in fishing communities round out the informative
displays. The Ice House Theatre has a capacity of 85 people and
offers a variety of films related to the fishing industry.
Every day the Fisheries Museum presents an extensive program that
includes a lobster presentation, fishermen’s stories on the
Theresa E. Conner and the Bluenose Saga. Practical skills such as
net mending, trawl rigging and rope work, rope splicing and knots
are demonstrated. Presentations such as “A Whale of a Tale”
and “The Scoop on Scallops” are also held on a daily
basis.
Lunenburg architecture
This was an extremely interesting experience, but if I wanted to
make my way back to Halifax in
time, I would have to leave the museum and make my way back to the
Lunenburg Inn where I would have a chance to
sit down and chat with the owners prior to continuing my drive
along the Lighthouse Trail towards Peggy's
Cove and Halifax..
Useful
books about travel to Nova Scotia:
Related
articles:
My five whirlwind days in Nova Scotia
Acadian
history at the Grand Pré National Historic Site
400 years of history at Annapolis
Royal
Port-Royal, a French habitation from 1605
Dinner at the Garrison House
in Annapolis Royal
The Annapolis Royal
Graveyard Tour
The Garrison House Bed and Breakfast
Exploring the Evangeline Trail from
Annapolis Royal to Yarmouth
Learning about Mi'kmaq heritage at the
Bear River First Nation Heritage and Cultural Center
Victorian heritage in Yarmouth
The MacKinnon-Cann Inn: Where Home
and Garden Television meets the Travel Channel
Yarmouth explained - the Yarmouth
County Museum
My car is in the ditch in Chebogue
River
The Lighthouse Trail from Yarmouth
to Shelburne
The Lighthouse Trail from Shelburne
to Lunenburg
The Town of Lunenburg - a UNESCO World Heritage
Site
An interview with the owners of the
Lunenburg Inn
The Lighthouse Trail from Lunenburg to
Halifax via Mahone Bay and Peggy's Cove
Arrival in Halifax and a stunning
musical performance - DRUM!
A Halifax city tour, the city's
connection to the Titantic and the 1917 Halifax Explosion
Exploring the Halifax Harbourwalk and
Pier 21 - Canada's immigration museum
A ferry trip to Dartmouth and saying
goodbye to Halifax
An interview with Pier 21 -
Canada's immigration museum
Helpful
links for travel to Nova Scotia:
Tourism
Nova Scotia
Destination
South West Nova Scotia
Halifax Tourism
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