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May 27, 2009

Mallorca Travel – Sant Elm & Sa Dragonera, Galilea and an Evening Stroll in Palma de Mallorca

My stomach problems of yesterday had disappeared and I felt as good as new on this gorgeous late May morning. An early highlight of the day was the breakfast on our large balcony in the Torrenova Aparthotel complex. Although the hotel itself is somewhat outdated and not particularly fancy, our view over the Mediterranean was simply precious.


View from the mountains of Calvia

By 10 am we had driven from the touristy coastal areas into the quiet mountain town of Calvia which stretches along the foothills of the Tramuntana mountain region. In the middle of town we stopped at the local church, Sant Joan Baptista, a late 19th century church that was built on earlier foundations from the 13th century. Calvia itself is not a very large tourist destination, but an authentic Mediterranean town where locals go about their daily business.


The parish church of Calvia

Side streets through rolling hills and olive groves then took us to Andratx, a quaint rural town in the shadow of the Puig Galatzo mountain. We explored the town’s church and the adjoining castle where we enjoyed a spectular view of the coastline in the distance. Andratx and the surrounding area are generally very expensive territory and many Northern Europeans own villas and holiday homes in the area.


Courtyard of the castle of Andratx

Our next destination was Mallorca’s westernmost settlement: Sant Elm, a picturesque seaside fishing village with a nice sandy beach. Despite various newer tourist developments, the town has retained a lot of its old charm. Various restaurants and bars overlook the bay. Further along you get a better view of Sa Dragonera, a narrow rocky island whose jagged mountain peaks are reminiscent of a dragon’s back. The island is uninhabited and has been turned into a protected nature reserve.


A view of Sa Dragonera from the harbour of Sant Elm

Tourists can visit the island by taking a ferry from Sant Elm, and many go to Sa Dragonera to do hiking. The island itself does not have any accommodation or hospitality establishments. Another local destination, called Sa Trapa, is a former mill and displays historical farm equipment. The Sant Elm area is extremely popular with hikers who enjoy the spectacular views over the northwestern tip of Mallorca.


Nice views in Sant Elm

We continued our tour back through Andratx and up into the mountains. The contrast between the busy coastline of Mallorca and the quiet mountain regions is amazing, and we only encountered a few lonely mountain bikers on the twisting mountain roads. We stopped in Galilea, a pretty mountain village perched along the slopes of the Puig Galatzo. The town church dates back to the early 1800s, and a nice-looking restaurant sits on the square right next to the church. The peaceful streets and cobble-stoned plazas give you the illusion of being far removed from the modern world.


A view over Galilea


Just a few kilometers further east is the village of Puigpunyent which is located on the eastern slope of the Tramuntana mountains. Puigpunyent is less than 15 km away from the capital of Palma de Mallorca but feels like an entirely different world. Located in a bow-shaped valley, the pace is slow, and locals and tourists alike enjoy their leisurely relaxation time on the outdoor patios of this quaint village.


Impressive staircase at the Grand Hotel Son Net

We drove up on a hill in the middle of town as we noticed a huge mansion on top that had been turned into an upscale hospitality establishment called the Gran Hotel Son Net. 31 luxurious bedrooms and suites, two gourmet restaurants, a swimming pool and a wellness centre pamper the guests of this exclusive establishment. I love Spanish architecture, and this stately building from 1672 is a great example of Mallorcan manor houses. It was converted into a luxury hotel and opened in 1998. But the history of this location goes back much further: a house has been located on this site for more than 1000 years.


Gorgeous bar area inside historic Son Net

As an ardent architecture and history buff, I went inside to check out the main floor and admired the solid stone construction with its rounded archways and the tasteful décor and furniture. Great views opened up from the patio over the surrounding valley and a gorgeous swimming pool. One of the highlights of this historic building is the authentic olive oil press that is the centerpiece of the appropriately named Oleum Restaurant. We had stumbled across a beautiful place, it was just a shame we did not have enough time to stay around and have a drink in this inspiring environment of this first-class facility.


Ancient olive oil press inside the Grand Hotel Son Net

Instead we had to turn around and get back to our apartment in Palmanova where my travel partner Gary packed his suitcase as his plane was leaving today. In the late afternoon we drove into Palma and I dropped Gary off for his flight back to Austria. Now I had three more days left to explore Mallorca by myself.


Mallorca has beautiful flowers

I planned to spend the evening in Palma de Mallorca, parked my car east of downtown and strolled through the narrow streets of the La Calatrava neighbourhood towards the famous cathedral, La Seu. This district has narrow winding streets that date back to Arab times, when Mallorca was dominated by the Moors from the early 10th century until its reconquest in 1229. One of the few relics of Moorish architecture in Palma are the Arab Baths which are also located in this neighbourhood.


The imposing Gothic cathedral of La Seu in Palma de Mallorca

As the sun started to sink lower on the horizon I arrived on Calle Mirador, right next to the imposing cathedral and to the Palau de l’Almudaina. This palace was the former royal residence of King Jaume II, who conquered Mallorca back from the Moors in the early 13th century. The walls of an earlier Arab fortress were used in the construction of the Palau de l’Alumdaina. With the palace and the cathedral at my back, I enjoyed a beautiful vista towards the Mediterranean Sea, past the Parc de la Mar, which features a large man-made lake and a giant mural by Joan Miro.


The 13th century Palau de'l Alumdaina

I strolled into the westerly sun past two additional major landmarks: the Consolat de Mar, an elegant Renaissance-Baroque building from the 1600s, which today is the seat of the government of the Balearic Islands; and La Llotja, a former stock exchange that dates back to the late Gothic period and was finished in 1456. La Llotja is unusual in that it is a secular building, while most of the architecture that is preserved from the Gothic area consists of churches and cathedrals.


Statue in front of the Palau de l'Alumdaina

The nearby Plaça Drassanes was very lively with several outdoor patios and live music. From here I started exploring the narrow streets west of the Cathedral, peaked into various restaurants, bars, jewelry shops and some of Palma’s magnificent courtyards that are the hidden gems of so many old buildings in the old part of town. I stopped at a pastry shop to looked at some famous “ensaimadas”; these are Mallorcan yeast-dow cakes that are shaped like a coil. They are usually sold in gift boxes and their name actually derives from the Arab word “saim” which means “pork lard”. They looked mighty delicious in their display case, but I was out of luck as the retail store was already closed.


Mallorca's famous ensaimadas, I wish I had tasted one...


On the Plaça del Rei Joan Carles I stopped to take in the almost Parisian atmosphere with the bustling street cafes and an accordion player. Walking south through the Passeig des Born, Palma’s main shopping street, I ended up on Plaça de la Reina and headed up on Carrer Conquistador to Palma’s City Hall. Located in a historic building on Plaça Cort, this is also the location of the main tourism office of Palma.


Palma de Mallorca's city hall, the Ayuntamient


Always curious, I walked inside and admired the main entrance hall with its impressive staircase. Two huge statues of a Mallorcan man and woman in traditional dress were flanking the steps, and two more gigantic figures of a traditional Mallorcan flute player and a drummer were standing guard to the left of the entrance. The Municipal Public Library is also located in this building.


Two giant statues inside the entrance hall of Palma's city hall

A very large, gnarly olive tree stands across from the City Hall, a popular place for tourists to take photos. I walked northwards on Carrer Colom, a trendy shopping street in Palma. Most places had already closed or were just shutting down. I caught a glimpse of a store called “Toronto”, which was actually a sandwich bar. This was surprising because Mallorca is not visited by many Canadian travelers.


Live Flamenco music on Palma's Plaça Major


At the end of the street I arrived at Plaça Major, a pedestrian-only square dating back to the 19th century. Buildings on all four sides of the square have the same façade design and several bistros and cafes entertain guests on their outdoor patios. In the middle of the square a Flamenco player was enchanting the passers-by with his guitar.


Beautifully crafted hinge on a wooden door in Palma

It was now starting to get dark and I started making my way back towards my car through the narrow streets of La Calatrava. All of the stores had closed already, and this district seemed very quiet and deserted. Very few people were on the street, with the exception of a few American marines who had sailed into town aboard a US battleship.


The gnarly olive tree on Plaça Cort

The sun had already slipped beneath the horizon as I started my half hour trek back to Palmanova. Reflecting back on the day I thought that Palma de Mallorca is one of those places that would be perfect for retirement. With its great climate, diverse cultural and entertainment offerings and the beautiful surroundings of Mallorca’s countryside, this Mediterranean city has a lot to offer.


The warm evening glow of the setting sun on the western facade of La Seu


Related Articles for Europe 2009 (Austria, Mallorca & Prague):

My local explorations around the province of Styria (Austria)
Driving tour to Semmering mountain and Mariazell pilgrimage town (Austria)
A day trip to Ptuj, a beautiful Slovenian city
Luxury & history at Finca Son Pont in Mallorca, dinner on the Mediterranean
A crazy drive up the Puig de Maria, Pollença and Cap de Formentor
The gorgeous Tramuntana Mountains, Finca Ca's Sant & dinner in scenic Soller
Taking the historic tram to Port de Soller and exploring Palmanova
A visit to Andratx and first discoveries of Palma de Mallorca
The historic train ride from Palma to Soller and Mallorca's north coast
Exploring the east side of Mallorca: Manacor and Porto Cristo
Mallorca's northwest side: Sant Elm, Sa Dragonera & an evening in Palma
The round medieval Bellver Castle in Palma, Inca and Alcudia
A mountain drive to Alaro, Bunyola, Valdemossa & folklore at La Granja
Medieval Arta, the beaches of Cala Rajada and the Castle of Capdepera
A walking tour of Prague's New Town and Old Town historic areas
A visit to an authentic Czech beer hall - U Medvidku
Cold war history at the Hotel Jalta on Wenceslas Square in Prague
Art Deco splendor at the historic Radisson Blu Alcron Hotel in Prague
A visit to Strahov Monastery and Prague Castle, two of Prague's gems
A walking tour of Prague's Jewish Quarter, a fascinating part of town
Culinary experiences at the kosher King Solomon Restaurant
Art Nouveau Splendor at Prague's Municipal House & a river tour
A tour of Mala Strana and Petrin Hill with Prague's mini Eiffel tower


Related Videos:

Mural in the mountain town of Calvia

 

Nice country drive towards Sant Elm

 

The scenic town of Sant Elm

 

Looking at Sa Dragonera, the Dragon's Island


View from the mountain top in Galilea

 

Checking out the luxury of the Grand Hotel Son Net in Puigpunyent


Parc de la Mar and La Seu in Palma de Mallorca


Consulat de Mar & La Llonja in Palma de Mallorca



Great interior courtyard and historic buildings in Old Palma de Mallorca

 

Busy shopping street "Es Born" in Palma de Mallorca & Plaça del Rei Joan Carles I

 

Live Flamenco music on the Plaza Mayor


The "Toronto" store in downtown Palma de Mallorca


The narrow streets of La Calatrava


Driving past La Seu at sunset


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