Mallorca Travel; Exploring
Eastern Mallorca: Arta, Capdepera and Cala Rajada
On my last full day in Mallorca my plan was to
explore the eastern part of the island. I had spent
the vast majority of my time in the north of Mallorca,
where the dramatic Serra de Tramuntana mountain
range had held an almost magical spell on me. Today
my destinations were on the eastern part of the
island.
Around 10 am I left Port d’Alcudia and started
driving south. The first big attraction along my
route was the Parc Natural de s’Albufera,
a large protected wetland that features many kilometers
of walkways that allow visitors to view the fauna
and flora of this nature area. More than 200 species
of wild birds can be admired up close at this conservation
area. Close by is the town of C’an Picafort,
a tourist town located in the centre of the Bay
of Alcudia which is particularly popular with tourists
from Germany. From here the road turned inland through
flattish countryside with occasional rolling hills.
The fortified Sanctuary of Sant Salvador in Mallorca
My first stop was at the hilltop town of Arta whose
name derives from the Arabic word for “garden”.
I drove through the narrow streets of the town to
a parking lot below the fortification, parked my
car and hiked up to the top of the hill which is
crowned by the impressive Sanctuary of Sant Salvador.
Altar in the church of the Sanctuary of Sant Salvador
The church dates from the 1300s and draws visitors
from all across Mallorca. The fortification walls
were added in the 16h century to protect the church
against invading pirates. The view from the top
of the mountain across the wide expansive valley
is fabulous and towards the south side you can survey
the town of Arta which sprawls at the foot of the
hill.
Stone cross below the sanctuary in Arta
A series of steps down from the mountain, actually
a Way of the Cross, is the town’s parish church
which dates back to 1573. Arta is not a primary
tourist destination, but definitely worth a stop
on a tour of the island. From here I continued my
drive eastwards on Highway C712 to the seafront
town of Cala Rajada, the main coastal development
on this part of the island.
The impressive Cathedral of Arta
I arrived in Son Moll, a part of Cala Rajada that
offers a beautiful cove with a sandy beach that
is enveloped by turquoise and deep blue waters.
Most of the tourists in this town hail from Germany,
and I was watching a crowd of German tourists in
a public dance lesson right next to the beach. Cala
Rajada used to be a fishing village until the onset
of mass tourism in the 1960s.
The beautiful turquoise beach of Son Moll in Cala
Rajada
The entire waterfront is accessible via a paved
walkway that is lined by a series of cafes and restaurants
with outdoor patios. It was now getting close to
noon time and my stomach was starting to growl.
One restaurant caught my attention with a sign up
front saying “Hier nix Kotelett & Sauerkraut,
hier kocht Pedro”. (Translation: “No
pork chops and sauerkraut here, Pedro is cooking
here.”). I had to laugh out loud at this obviously
humorous reference to the many restaurants that
cater specifically to German taste buds.
Great view over the harbour of Cala Rajada while
eating my pizza
I found a nice little pizzeria and plunked myself
down on the outdoor patio with a perfect view of
the harbour of Cala Rajada. Instead of fishing boats,
the port today is home to expensive yachts and cruisers.
I enjoyed the sun as I savoured my tomato and goat
cheese pizza. As I took in the scenic view of Cala
Rajada I thought to myself that it does not get
much better than this.
King Juan Carlos regulars stay in the mansion on
top of the hill
When I was finished with lunch I asked the owner
(who also hailed from Germany) about the big villa
on the hill opposite harbour. He explained that
the entire hill and the villa are owned by the wealthy
March family, owners of the Banca March, a financial
institution founded in 1926 by Juan March who at
one point was the 7th richest man in the world.
The family often receives important guests, and
once a year King Juan Carlos from Spain arrives
here for a summer vacation, resulting in extensive
security measures that block off the port of Cala
Rajada.
The waterfront of Cala Rajada
I also asked the restaurant owner about bicycle
rentals in town and he recommended a store in town.
So I started walking towards the harbour and inland
to the intended rental shop, but it was all locked
up. I could not believe that on a Saturday afternoon
at 1 pm the shop would be closed, but that’s
all part and parcel of Spain’s siesta tradition.
The turquoise waters of Cala Rajada
So I slowly strolled back to my vehicle to drive
to the northern part of town that was supposed to
hold another bicycle rental place. At the north
end of town I ended up at Cala Argulla, a beach
in a deep cove that was absolutely packed with people.
I got a little idea what these beaches might look
like in July and August when huge crowds of tourists
descend on these beaches. It must be absolute mayhem,
I thought. Finally on my way back from the beach
I found the second bike rental place, but no luck
here either, it was closed as well. Unfortunately
I had to give up my dream of cycling on the island
of Mallorca.
The fortification tower at the Fortress of Capdepera
In the mid-afternoon I decided to start my drive
back and left Cala Rajada, but decided to make an
inland stop in the town of Capdepera. I parked my
vehicle in town and started walking up the hill
to the mountain fortress which dates back to the
14th century. King James II (Jaume II) had ordered
the construction of this structure to protect the
village among other things from pirate attacks.
Even bees like it at the fortress in Capdepera
After paying the modest admission fee I explored
the castle’s grounds which include a museum
that demonstrates locally weaved products. The highest
point of the castle is occupied by the Gothic church
Nuestra Senyora d’Esperança. Next to
the church I walked up a series of steps onto the
fortification walls which offer excellent views
out into the countryside.
Walking on the fortified walls of the fortress of
Capdepera
I started walking about 2.5 metres up above the
ground with no protective railing but started to
feel a little queezy, so I decided to get back down
from the fortress walls and walk a little more securely
on the ground. The early medieval Castell de Capdepera
was definitely worth a visit.
Fresh veggies for sale in Colonia de Sant Pere
One final stop on my back to Port d’Alcudia
was Colonia de Sant Pere, a fishing village on the
southern side of the Bay of Alcudia. I parked my
car and walked to the waterfront promenade which
is surrounded by a series of restaurants and cafes.
From here I had an absolutely perfect view of the
entire ridge of the Serra de Tramuntana, one of
the most scenic vistas of this entire imposing mountain
range. I sat down for a drink and just took in one
of my last scenic moments during my stay on the
gorgeous island of Mallorca that was coming to a
rapid end.
Colonia de Sant Pere: a great view towards the Tramuntana
Mountain Range
With a slight feeling of melancholy I left Colonia
de Sant Pere to get back to my hotel to pack my
luggage and get ready for my early morning departure
tomorrow. I was thinking back over my last 10 days
in Mallorca and how this small Mediterranean island
had impressed me with its amazing combination of
history, culture and scenic beauty. I will definitely
remember this trip for a long time to come…
Goodbye, Mallorca...
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