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June 29, 2006
Hello from Montreal: Dining and a Bit of
Jazz at Modavie
After my initial introduction to Montreal through my
driving tour, my next step was to explore the city on foot.
I set out on my first walk through Old Montreal (Vieux Montreal).
Literally five minutes from my hotel is the Place d’Armes,
one of the most historic locations of Montreal, highlighted by the
impressive Basilica of Notre Dame. I strolled eastwards on rue de
Notre Dame towards Place Jacques Cartier, Montreal’s main
square, that is surrounded by historic buildings, featuring many
restaurants, as well as by Montreal City Hall, an excquisite Second
Empire architectural beauty elevated on a ridge overlooking the
port area on the St. Lawrence River.
The gorgeous Basilica of Notre Dame
My own European heritage always makes me appreciate historic architecture,
and Old Montreal’s layout, with its narrow cobble-stoned streets
reminds me very much of European cities. It’s just the perfect
spot for a stroll. The centre of the square houses numerous vendors
selling flowers, souvenirs and 10 minute portrait artists. Thousands
of locals and visitors alike enjoy this atmosphere and Place Jacques
Cartier was very busy and the restaurant terraces were brimming
with people.
I walked east to the Marché Bonsecours, formerly Montreal’s
public market. After its closure in 1960 due to the proliferation
of supermarkets, the market housed municipal offices and exhibition
hall and since 1996 it now features a variety of merchants selling
arts and crafts. The late evening sun was reflecting off the silver
dome of the market and the mood was set for a gorgeous evening.
The Marché Bonsecours
I strolled along St-Paul Street, a narrow cobble-stoned street
featuring multiple restaurants, clothing stores, souvenir shops
and galleries, one of Montreal’s oldest streets until at 1
St-Paul Street I found my dinner location for the day: Modavie
Restaurant, a two-storey eating establishment located in a historic
building right at the corner of St-Laurent and St-Paul Streets.
I had a chance to spend some time with Christine, manager of Modavie,
to find out a bit more about this restaurant.
Modavie is one of several restaurants and hotels owned by the Antonopoulos
family. Tony and Costa Antonopolous have won numerous awards for
their contributions in revitalizing Old Montreal. Their portfolio
of hospitality establishments includes the Restaurant de Vieux-Port,
the Hotel Nelligan, the Hotel Place d’Armes, the Auberge du
Vieux Port, as well as Galianos. There are actually two Modavie
locations: one in old Montreal and one on the South Shore on the
south side of the St. Lawrence River.
Ready to eat at Modavie...
The building housing Modavie dates back roughly to the 1890s and
was originally an inn primarily accommodating sailors. Christine
explained that the name of the restaurant comes from “mode
de vie” or “lifestyle”. The building is located
just steps away from Montreal’s waterfront and Montreal’s
Science Centre is a few steps south at the King Edward Pier. The
Circque de Soleil is also located in the port and will return next
summer. They are currently performing a new show in Las Vegas: “Love”,
a show about the Beatles.
Christine explained that Modavie is actually well situated for
watching some of the many fireworks displays that are launched in
Montreal's port area. I lucked out with one of the best tables of
the house: a corner table upstairs with a view south and eastwards,
apparently a favourite table for wedding proposals.
I loved this little corner table
The décor is Mediterranean in style with lots of wood and
a warm atmosphere. When you come into the restaurant downstairs
you are facing the bar with tables to the right and into the back
of the restaurant. Christine showed me their wine cellar which features
more than 1000 bottles from all over the world, including wines
from Italy, California and France. Modavie even features one Canadian
wine – from Ontario no less.
Christine mentioned that Modavie's
welcoming atmosphere is reflected by the staff’s attention
to detail and they take great care in making the customers feel
comfortable. She herself has been at Modavie for seven years now
and although she left a couple of times she keeps coming back. She
originally started out at age 18 as a waitress and 11 years later
she has worked her way up to being the manager of a 100 seat restaurant.
Christine explained to me that their menu has changed over the years
and that Modavie originally offered sandwiches and pizza. As time
went on things got a bit fancier, more choices were added and tablecloths
appeared.
Christine and Mario from Modavie in front of their wine cellar
What attracted me to Modavie was that it features live jazz music
on a daily basis. While I was there, the Greg Cleyton Trio was setting
up and they started to entertain the growing crowd from about 7:30
onwards. As the evening progressed people kept streaming in from
the street and the restaurant filled up to capacity.
My appetizer arrives
As I chatted with Christine I had a chance to peruse the extensive
menu and decided to start the meal of with a warm goat cheese salad
with almonds and a peach and mango vinaigrette. A delicious course
of ravioli stuffed with Portobello mushrooms in a tomato and mascarpone
sauce followed. And Christine surprised me with a special desert:
a "crepe baluchon" with pears. Crepe is always one of
my favourite desserts and this nicely wrapped up ball of sweet dough
definitely hit the spot.
Delicous ravioli
Being located in such a prime area, Modavie
sees a wide range of customers. During the summer it is frequented
by Canadians from all over the country, Americans and Mexicans.
Fall is a very popular season with European travelers and during
winter there are a lot of conventioneers as well as travelers from
Germany. The day-time crowd consists mainly of lawyers who come
here for a tasty lunch from the courthouses which are located close
by. Modavie features a different lunch menu every day and at a reasonable
C$15.95 it includes a soup or a salad, a main dish and coffee.
"Crepe baluchon" - a delicious dessert
Modavie is a beautiful spot with a warm welcoming atmosphere. My
packed agenda included a Montreal
Ghost Tour next, so I did not have time to sit back and relax,
but Modavie was a great introduction to dining in Old Montreal.
Useful books about travel to Montreal:
Related articles:
Hello from Montreal 2006 - My 4-day
explorations of Montreal
Hello from Montreal: An interesting
train ride and first impressions
Hello from Montreal: Getting
the lay of the land in a driving tour
Hello from Montreal: Dinner and a
little jazz at Modavie
Hello from Montreal: Reliving
history with the Old Montreal Ghost Tour
Hello from Montreal: Architectural
discoveries in the Old Montreal Walking Tour
Hello from Montreal: Exploring
the Chateau Ramezay during a torrential downpour
Hello from Montreal:
Mexican delights at La Iguana & a peak at the Jazz Festival
Hello from Montreal: A guided bicycle
tour to explore Montreal's neighbourhoods
Hello from Montreal:
Biking on the Lachine Canal - Industrial history turned into a recreational
opportunity
Hello from Montreal: A chat with
André Giroux about Bicycling in Montreal
Hello from Montreal: Savouring Italian
cuisine at Galiano's and Canada Day Celebrations
Hello from Montreal:
Exploring the Olympic Stadium, the Botanical Garden & Insectarium
and outdoor action at the Jean Talon Market
Hello from Montreal: A Peruvian immigrant
success story at Restaurant Mañana
Hello from Montreal: Friendly
neighbourhood encounters on Square St. Louis
Hello from Montreal: Exploring
the Casino de Montreal
Hello from Montreal: Gourmet
dining at Nuances and amazing fireworks at La Ronde
Hello from Montreal: A final walk
to discover amazing architectural beauties
Helpful links for travel to Montreal:
Tourisme
Montreal - Montreal's official tourism information office
Quebec Tourism
- Official tourism website for Quebec
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