Ontario Travel – The
Hills of Headwaters and the Historic Millcroft Inn
Summer weekend getaways in Ontario are some of
my favourite things. But it’s strange, the
older I get the less fond I am of driving and sitting
in traffic. So that meant I was looking for a place
very close to Toronto that I would be able to reach
within about an hour. So I sat down with a provincial
map and started doing my research. And what I came
up with was the Caledon Region, just northwest of
the outskirts of Toronto, a region I have fond memories
of from when I was living in Brampton, northwest
of Toronto. I used to do many outings and bicycle
rides in that region and realized I had not been
back there in many years now. It was time to visit
again.
The rolling hills of the Hills of Headwaters Region
In my research I found out that the Caledon Region
has a new name now: it is now called the Hills of
Headwaters because it is the birthplace of four
important Ontario rivers: the Humber, the Grand,
the Credit and the Nottawasaga Rivers. This region
has the highest elevation in Southern Ontario and
is anchored by the Niagara Escarpment that traverses
the region and offers great hiking and nature opportunities.
The Millcroft Inn, a heritage building from 1881
Ready for a trip into the country I embarked on
my trip on July 16, 2010 and after a drive of only
about 45 minutes I reached my first destination:
the historic Millcroft Inn in the picturesque village
of Alton. This popular destination is a former knitting
mill from 1881 that has been turned into an upscale
hotel and spa. General Manager Steve Yates welcomed
me and started to show me around this impressive
property.
The glass-enclosed Pod overlooks the Mill Pond and
the waterfall - the best spot in the house
We started with a nice breakfast in the main-floor
restaurant which is located right next to the mill
race. As we sat down in the so-called “Pod”,
an alcove that is suspended above the river with
a gorgeous view of the waterfall, Steve explained
that the Millcroft Inn and Spa has earned the Four
Diamond Award from the CAA for 15 consecutive years.
This historic inn is part of the Vintage Hotel Group
which also includes other fine properties including
the Queens Landing, the Prince of Wales, the Pillar
and Post, and the Moffat Inn, all renowned upscale
properties in Niagara-on-the-Lake.
The Manor House is where the original mill owners
lived
The Millcroft Inn has 52 rooms and is located on
100 acres of land. There are three separate guest
buildings: the Main Mill, the Manor House, and the
Crofts, which are relatively recently built townhomes.
Having finished breakfast, Steve showed me the main
floor of the inn which was the former heart of the
woolen mill and still boasts many original architectural
features. Then we went upstairs to room 304 whose
highlight is the gorgeous view over the mill pond
and the waterfall. Each of the 22 rooms in the Main
Mill is appointed with a unique mix of Canadian
and European antiques.
The waterfall
On the lower level of the mill we visited the River
Room, a private and public space for guests where
they can read or relax by the open wood fireplace.
Large panorama windows open up to Shaw’s Creek
Falls. We then left the main building and walked
through the manicured grounds to the Manor House
which used to be the residence of the mill owners.
Today the Manor House holds King and Queen-size
bedrooms that are a bit larger than the rooms at
the Main Mill. Most of the guestrooms here also
feature large jetted tubs.
One of the spacious rooms in the Manor House
Back out in the garden Steve told me the interesting
story of the fountain that had been buried in the
ground for many years. It was only when a grandchild
of the original owner mentioned that there used
to be a fountain at a particular spot in the garden
that a search was started. It ended up being discovered
and put on display again in its original location.
The re-discovered fountain is back where it should
be
My room was going to be in the Manor House which
houses 10 spacious guest rooms. I was looking forward
to relaxing in Room 153, with its luxurious King-size
bed, its Internet-equipped work area and flat screen
television, the marble-tiled bathroom and private
access to the terrace. With my packed schedule there
was not going to be much relaxing, but I knew I
was going to have a good night’s rest in the
huge comfortable bed.
Beautiful hollyhocks adorn the Manor House
Back outside we walked past a stone building that
houses the Conference Centre. The Millcroft Inn
is not only a popular destination for weddings and
private parties, but also for corporate meetings.
Then we strolled across the bridge over Shaw’s
Creek which provides a great view of the waterfall.
On the other side is a forested area with some ruined
former storage buildings that make for a scenic
backdrop. A clearing inside the forest is used as
an outdoor chapel for wedding ceremonies. Stones
from the Niagara Escarpment highlight the rugged
nature of this space and lots of walking trails
criss-cross the property of the Millcroft Inn.
A look at the Main Mill with the waterfall
Steps further north are the “Crofts”,
a collection of town homes that offer self-contained,
two-storey chalet-style accommodation. The upper
level has a separate Queen bedroom while the main
floor has a large sitting area next to a wood-burning
fireplace and a ground-level walkout patio. Six
of the town homes also feature a private outdoor
two-person hot tub.
The living room in one of the Croft buildings
After visiting the recreation room with its billiards,
shuffleboard, movies, DVD and CD player and various
table games, we headed into the 9000 square foot
spa. 17 treatment areas, a café, an indoor
whirlpool and an infrared sauna welcome and pamper
the guests. The fully licensed Spa Café serves
a selection of healthy choices. Just outside the
spa is an attractive terrace with a healing garden
and an outdoor treatment area. In my mind I was
picturing what it would feel like to get an open-air
massage in this serene environment…
Guests get to relax by the swimming pool
Having visited the main buildings on the property
I headed back to the Main Mill where Steve introduced
me to Roberto Fracchioni, the award-winning executive
chef of the Millcroft Inn. A tall and lanky young
man with a perennial smile on his face, Roberto
is a real character and passionate about the food
that he and his team create. He has been the executive
chef at the Millcroft Inn for five and a half years
now and his menu changes with the seasons, depending
on what fresh fare may be available.
Chef Roberto Fracchioni with his huge vat of soup
stock
A small pot of carrot soup was simmering slowly
on the stove, while roasted carrots, parsnips and
turnips had just come out of the oven. Roberto showed
me a three-potato trio with regular, sweet and purple
potatoes, a variety I had not seen before. Most
of the produce comes from Whole Village CSA Vegetables,
a local community-supported agriculture business.
Having grown up in an Italian family with a kitchen
garden, Roberto has long been exposed to home-grown
vegetables and has developed a real respect for
how much nurturing and care goes into the growing
of produce. Local asparagus, he said, is cut on
the field in the morning, and it is still warm from
the sun when it gets dropped off at the inn at noon.
Three different colours of potoatoes, all locally
grown
A huge 60 litre pot of beef stock was slowly boiling
away and Roberto explained that it contains 50 pounds
of beef bones, 25 bones of chicken bones and carrots,
celery and onion (the “holy trinity of cooking”).
Usually seven to eight cooks work in this compact
kitchen and it gets really hot here. Last week,
Roberto said, the temperature in the kitchen clocked
in at 125 degrees.
Fresh ingredients are waiting to be processed
Meat also comes from local producers, for example
ducks come from a farm in Elora, quail come from
the Niagara Region, venison is also grown locally.
“Ted, the Fisherman” delivers organically
raised Arctic char. Roberto and his team delight
in producing unique dishes from farm-fresh local
ingredients. Roberto himself loves to experiment
and frequently draws his inspiration from the multicultural
cuisines of his coworkers.
The east side of the Mill is where the kitchen garden
is located
To continue my culinary education Roberto took
me outside into the kitchen garden. He pointed out
all the various herbs and vegetables: lemon balm,
lavender, mint, parsley, chives and tomatoes. Edible
flowers like nasturtiums and pansies were going
to adorn many salads. Roberto does many cooking
demonstrations, and his cooking shows have become
an attraction in themselves.
Riding to the top of the Pinnacle in the golf cart
And to cap off my adventure on this beautiful day,
Roberto packed me into a golf cart and drove us
up the hill to the “Pinnacle”, the highest
part of the surrounding forest, which can be accessed
by the inn’s guests on various walking trails.
After a bumpy ride over roots and stones in the
forest, we reached the top and had an amazing view
over the surrounding area.
Roberto at the top of the hill
Roberto mentioned that guests often come up here
in horse-drawn carriages. Sometimes he serves them
stews, soups and other hot food and warm apple cider
up here in this serene forest hideaway that is only
a 20 minute walk away from the Main Mill.
Beautiful flowers surround the Alton Mill
Finally, back down from the hill, Roberto dropped
me off at the main building where I met Sandra,
the gardener. Sandra has been gardening here for
10 years and is responsible for the rich display
of colourful plants and flowers around the whole
property. She also plants the kitchen garden according
to the chef’s instructions and obviously loves
her job.
The Millcroft Inn has some beautiful sitting areas
for its guests
After this comprehensive tour of the whole property,
I was ready to continue my discoveries: a visit
to the Alton
Mill, another heritage property in the village
of Alton.
