May
18, 2006
Hello from Ottawa – Doubling Up On
Antiquity at the Museum of Civilization
Today culture was on my mind. After enjoying two interesting exhibits
at the Canadian Museum
of Contemporary Photography, I made my way across the river to the City of Gatineau (formerly Hull) to visit Canada’s
most popular museum: the Canadian
Museum of Civilization. This rewowned Canadian institution is
known for its unique architecture and is host to the Canadian Postal
Museum, the Canadian Children’s Museum, an IMAX Theatre (which
I was going to visit later today) and a variety of special exhibitions.
The Canadian Museum of Civilization has three major galleries:
the Grand Hall, which is the architectural centerpiece of the museum,
Canada Hall as well as the First People’s Hall. The 112 x
15 m (365 ft x 50 ft) glass wall of the Great Hall features a magnificent
view of Ottawa’s Parliament Buildings and hosts the world’s
largest collection of indoor totem poles.
My goal today was to see a special exhibition: a traveling exhibition
organized by the Cincinnati Art Museum and the American Museum of
Natural History under the patronage of Her Majesty Queen Rania Al-Abdullah
of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan." Petra - Lost City
of Stone" is the most complete portrait ever assembled
of the amazing and enigmatic city of Petra. This exhibit tells the
story of a once-thriving metropolis at the crossroads of the ancient
trade routes.
Its inhabitants, the Nabateans, constructed a magnificent city
in a harsh desert environment. Petra only receives about 15 centimeters
(6 inches) of rain a year. Ingenously its residents were able to
control the water supply of the city by capturing and collecting
water from flash floods in more than 200 underground cisterns which
would then be redistributed through the city through a system of
clay pipes. This stored water was used during periods of extended
drought and the city even prospered from the sale of the water.
In effect the ancient Nabateans had created an artificial oasis.
Originally the Nabateans were traveling merchants, but they became
even more prosperous once they settled down and started serving
and taxing other traveling merchants. Being located at the intersection
of several caravan trade routes, the Nabateans integrated art and
architecture from other cultures. Asian elephants, for example,
were a popular symbol for strength, many carvings found show artistic
elements from in the art and mythology of Ancient Greece. Several
centuries later, Byzantine Christian art was widely adopted.
Petra’s surrounding natural environment is visibly stunning
and geologically unique. A dark and narrow gorge called the Siq
(the “shaft”) cut into sandstone forms the eastern access
to the city. In some places the Siq is only 3 to 4 metres wide and
its end stands the magnificent ruin of the Treasury (Al Khazneh),
an absolutely stunning decorated façade hewn out of the natural
stone. In total, Petra had 3000 temples, tombs and dwellings and
during its heyday the population was an estimated 20,000 people.
Originally these structures were covered with stucco and brightly
painted, which must have been a spectular view in this desert environment.
Despite the abundance of temples we actually know relatively little
about the religion of the Nabateans. They apparently had a small
number of Gods, with Dushara being the most important male god,
and Al-Uzza representing the most important female deity.
Petra celebrated its zenith between 200 B.C. and 200 A.D. when
it was one of the major trading centers linking the Silk Road and
the spice routes that connected China, India and Arabia with buying
consumers in Greece, Rome, Egypt and Syria. In 106 A.D. Petra was
annexed by the Roman Emperor Trajan. During the Byzantine period
the city had its own bishop and later large Christian churches were
built.
Being located in a seismically unstable area, Petra had experienced
many earthquakes, but a tremor in 363 AD hit the city particularly
hard. Half the city was destroyed and the water system was disrupted.
With the increase of ocean trade, the decline of land-based trade
routes through this area had already affected the city earlier and
it seems that Petra was unable to muster the resources to rebuild
itself. In the early 7th century, Muslim Arabs arrived in Petra
from the south. The transition to Islamic rule appears to have been
relatively peaceful in Southern Jordan.
By the seventh century Petra was finally abandoned and remained
virtually lost to the outside world. It was not until 1812 that
a Swiss explorer, Johann Burckhard, rediscovered the city. Today,
less than five percent of the city has been unearthed, so this ancient
city of stone still has many secrets to reveal.
The exhibit itself consists of many components, including artifacts,
architectural detailing, jewellery, vases and other objects. Some
of the highlights of the exhibition are a striking gravestone bearing
the likeness of a man’s head, a recently discovered column
capital with elephant heads, a relief carving of a standing eagle
and a recently reassembled sculpted garland frieze from one of the
city’s main temples. 19th century paintings, drawings and
prints illustrate the city’s rediscovery by Burckhard in 1812
and Petra – Crossroad of the Ancient World
is an 8 minute film that presents a brief cultural history of this
city. It also illustrates the Nabateans' unique rock-cutting process
as well as their water management and storage techniques.
This historical exhibition is augmented by a photo exhibit: The
Bedouin of Petra is a collection of 25 colour photographs
by award-winning photojournalist Vivian Ronay. The photos were taken
at various times between 1986 and 2003 and document the life of
the Bedoul Bedouins, and their transition from a pastoral life to
a lifestyle based on tourism. The Bedoul had lived in tents and
caves among the ruins of the ancient city until the Jordanian government
became concerned about the city’s preservation. They were
then invited to move to a nearby village where modern housing and
facilities would be provided. The majority of them moved from tents
and caves to conventional houses, giving up their old life as herders
and farmers to work in the tourism industry. A fascinating look
at an ancient people who have undergone an enormous change in lifestyle.
As if Petra wasn’t fascinating enough, I decided to add another
encounter with antiquity. I walked over to the Museum’s IMAX
Theatre to see a special presentation: Greece –
Secrets of the Past. This IMAX Theatre is the first
of its kind in the world and actually combines two IMAX technologies.
The size of the vertical screen is 10 times the size of a conventional
movie screen and tilts into place to convey a multi-dimensional
experience, as close as possible to actually being there.
This realistic quality was definitely appreciated since one of
the movie’s opening sequences starts with a flight over the
Mediterranean and a stunning look down on some of the Greek islands.
In dramatic pictures I learned about the formation of the island
of Santorini and its volcanic eruption: the most powerful explosion
in history.
Images of Athens and the Acropolis demonstrated that 2500 years
ago Greece was indeed the cradle of Western civilization. Art and
architecture flourished while science, philosophy and literature
reached impressive heights. The camera follows in the footsteps
a team of archeologists and introduced the audience to innovations
in this scientific field.
Greece: Secrets of the Past is a MacGillivray Freeman Film
produced by Alex G. Spanos in association with the Canadian Museum
of Civilization and Museum Film Network with major funding assistance
from the National Science Foundation. Incidentally Nia Vardalos
(from “My Big Fat Greek Wedding”) narrates the feature.
The visual images are stunning and it’s true: it’s almost
as good as being there…
Related Articles:
Hello from Ottawa
- Overview of my first excursion to Ottawa's Tulip Festival
Hello from Ottawa - Arrival,
two photo exhibitions and my own photo safari
Hello from Ottawa - Doubling up
on antiquity at the Canadian Museum of Civlization
Hello from Ottawa - Sweetgrass Bistro:
Aboriginal dining in the ByWard Market
Hello from Ottawa - The historic
McGee's Inn: 2 couples embark on the adventure of joint B&B
ownership
Hello from Ottawa - The Canadian
Museum of Nature and Fatal Attraction: seduction in the
animal world
Hello from Ottawa - Gatineau Park,
Ottawa's nature playground
Hello from Ottawa - Major's Hill
and a live TV interview
Hello from Ottawa - Bistro 115: Authentic
French-Canadian cuisine in the ByWard Market
Hello from Ottawa - Historic transportation
on the Hull-Chelsea-Wakefield Steam Train
Hello from Ottawa - The Wakefield
Mill Inn & Spa: from historic gristmill to upscale lodging,
dining and pampering
Hello from Ottawa - Flower
and dress design at the Casino du Lac-Leamy
Hello from Ottawa - The Flotilla
- a parade of decorated boats - and an interview about the background
of the Tulip Festival
Hello from Ottawa - Sheep shearing
at the Canadian Agriculture Museum
Hello from Ottawa - Tractors,
cows and small animals at the Canadian Agriculture Museum
Hello from Ottawa - My 2-day
packed itinerary for Winterlude
Hello from Ottawa - First
impressions and an overview
Hello from Ottawa - The Lord Elgin
Hotel: a historic landmark in the heart of Ottawa
Hello from Ottawa - Fat Tuesday's
and the Mardi Gras Experience in the ByWard Market
Hello from Ottawa - An early
morning walk to Parliament Hill
Hello from Ottawa - Skating
on the Rideau Canal, the World's Largest Skating Rink
Hello from Ottawa - Charity and
hilarity: the 26th Annual Bedzz Races on Dow's Lake
Hello from Ottawa - Confederation
Park and other Winterlude locations
Hello from Ottawa - Darcy McGee's:
a historic Irish pub on Sparks Street
Hello from Ottawa - The Canadian
War Museum and "Weapons of Mass Dissemination - The Propaganda
of War"
Hello from Ottawa - The
Canadian Museum of Contemporary Photography featuring Sunil Gupta
and the challenges of immigration
An interview with Tourism Ottawa
provides a great overview of this city
An interview about
the ByWard Market, a prime entertainment and shopping area
An interview
with the National Gallery of Canada
An interview
with the Canadian Museum of Civilization
Helpful websites:
Ottawa
Tourism: Ottawa's official tourism information
The ByWard
Market Business Improvement Area
The
National Capital Commission
The National
Museum of Civilization
The National Gallery
of Canada
The Canadian War
Museum
The Canadian Museum
of Nature
The
Canadian Agriculture Museum
Useful books about Ottawa:
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