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August 5, 2010


Ontario Travel – Peterborough: The Elmhirst’s Resort and the 4th Line Theatre

I had really enjoyed my first-hand introduction to pioneer life at the Lang Pioneer Village this morning and arrived late at my next stop: the Elmhirst’s Resort in Keene, about 25 km southeast of Peterborough and just about 90 minutes east of Toronto. I was greeted by Stephen Elmhirst, a member of the fourth generation of Elmhirsts that have been running this resort. His great-grandfather purchased this huge 240 acre property in 1903 and originally ran it as a fishing camp. His grandfather then built cottages and developed the waterfront. And during the 1980s his father started an aggressive expansion of the resort and added the Hearthside Dining Room.


The Elmhirst's Resort, a great destination on Rice Lake, 90 minutes from Toronto

Today the Elmhirst’s Resort has 30 cottages, a luxurious spa, an indoor and an outdoor pool, riding stables and a health club. Stephen explained that the resort is also an extremely popular destination for weddings and special events, with its gorgeous location on the north shore of Rice Lake. Naturally, watersports are extremely popular with the guests, who can use canoes, kayaks, paddleboats or hydrabikes or even rent different types of powerboats. Every afternoon Stephen’s nephew takes guests out on his boat for waterskiing.


Loads of fun for the guests at the waterfront of the Elmhirst's Resort

In the upstairs banquet room Stephen showed me the phenomenal view out over Rice Lake through the giant picture windows. With a length of 32 km and a width of 5 km, Rice Lake is quite narrow and shallow, and it is extremely popular with fishermen due to its rich stocks of large-mouth bass, walleye, and muskey. The name of the lake is derived from the wild rice fields that were once cultivated here by native tribes.


In addition to power boating, all sorts of watercraft are available for the guests

Prior to joining his family’s business, Stephen was an air traffic controller, and when his family asked him to come back to the resort he decided to take up cooking and became the kitchen manager for the operation. But aviation still runs in his blood as I found out when Stephen took me to the Wild Blue Yonder Pub. This popular watering hole is decorated in the memory of his grandfather Arthur Elmhirst who was a test pilot in World War II. The resort even features a 2500 foot landing strip where pilots often fly in to have lunch in the aviation-inspired pub.


The bar in the aviation-inspired Wild Blue Yonder Pub

Stephen also touched on another important point: the resort’s commitment to farm-fresh locally grown food. To that end the Elmhirst family raise their own Black Angus beef on the property, have a ½ acre kitchen garden and their own free-laying hens. The pub serves local beers such as Publicans from Peterborough, the Church Key Brewery from Campbellford and Steam Whistle from Toronto. In 2009 a spacious patio that is surrounded by luscious flower beds was added to the pub where guests can enjoy casual meals and a drink in the warm outdoor sun.


Chef de cuisine Michael Sterpin prepared my lunch

As Stephen had to leave, he took me over to the Hearthside Dining Room where I had a chance to meet chef de cuisine Michael Sterpin. My table was set up in the corner with a gorgeous easterly and southerly view over Rice Lake and Michael started to explain my lunch to me: my starter was an heirloom tomato salad with Mariposa Farms goat cheese and a broken balsamic vinaigrette, followed by a Linwood Acres Farm cold poached trout with yellow tomato salsa. Healthy, tasty cuisine using high-quality local ingredients is a priority at the Elmhirst’s Resort. Michael said he only needs to walk into the kitchen garden to pick farm-fresh home-grown produce.


My appetizer is ready for me: an Heirloom Tomato Salad with local ingredients

After a delectable lunch with a gorgeous vista over Rice Lake, I headed to the spa and met Anne Marshall to learn more about the spa services. Anne indicated that the spa is new and is run by Spa Director Martina Linde, a specialist in Traditional Chinese Medicine, acupuncture, Tui Na massage, nutrition and herbology. Martina is also part of the family as general manager's Greg Elmhirst's wife. The spa offers various massage treatments, acupuncture, hand and foot treatments, facials and waxing services. While we were talking, two ladies were enjoying getting pampered on their comfortable spa chairs, right in front of huge picture windows overlooking Rice Lake and the swimming pool.


Annee Marshall welcomes me to the spa

Then Anne and I walked outside onto the lakeside patio that is a frequent location for weddings. The grounds of the Elmhirst’s Resort are immaculate with their perfectly groomed lawns and colourful flowers. Two full-time gardeners take care of the gardens at the resort. A huge life-size chess board is located on the west side of the main building, the location of many father-son chess lessons. Anne added that guests come here from the Greater Toronto area, from Peterborough and many other parts of Canada. During the soccer world cup the resort hosted guests from Argentina, Germany and the UK, which made for very interesting discussions at the bar.


The huge outdoor chessboard - a popular gathering place

Next we hopped onto an ATV as Anne promised that “now we are going to see the horses”. We quickly drove to the air strip and Anne mentioned they have a regular guest from Dubai who flies his own plane here from Toronto and stops for lunch at the pub. In the distance she pointed out a building that holds the pool and office heating system which burns environmentally friendly biomass. Environmentally sustainable operations are important here at the Elmhirst’s Resort.


Anne and I head off on our tour of the resort

Adjacent to the airstrip is the sizeable kitchen garden where guests can pitch in with the daily harvest in the morning. Then we turned around and started to head eastwards up into the hills. We stopped at the chicken coop where Anne called the chickens with a cheerful “Come here, girls”, and sure enough, 48 chickens started to come over to greet their human friend. These chickens lay 60 eggs a day which are all used by the resort’s kitchen.


These friendly chickens lay 60 eggs a day!

As we drove up the hill, Anne told me about the myriad of activities available at the Elmhirst’s Resort. Summer activities include walking, bicycling, horseback riding, various water sports, and even golf at the golf club right next door. Sea planes offer sightseeing tours. In the winter, Rice Lake becomes a skating rink, and snow shoeing and cross-country skiing entice the outdoor adventurers. Snowmobile and ATV safaris are offered to the adrenaline junkies, but many guests prefer to indulge in the couch-potato package, lazing the day away in their comfy cottages.


The riding horses come and say hello to Anne

At the top of the hill the Free Spirit Riding Stables came into view where Angie, the trail guide, explained that they have 11 horses that go out on several walks with the guests a day. Beautiful Black Angus beef cattle with shiny black coats were grazing freely on the pasture. Continuing further up the hill, the view over the rolling farmland and over Rice Lake got even better. Anne said that some of their European guests can’t believe it when they find out that the land as far as you can see belongs to the resort.


The top of the hill provides an awesome view over Rice Lake

To make things easier for resort guests who enjoy walking on the property, they have set up a bench by a tree on the hilltop. “Cowboy picnics” are held in a small meadow area on the hill and urban dwellers can really get away from it all to enjoy the country life. Then we headed back on one of the many forest paths and Anne told me about the “Wild Women’s Weekends” that the resort puts on for groups of female friends. During these getaways six to eight women will stay in a cottage, drink fine wine, eat great dinners, do nature activities, embark on ATV safaris, go horseback riding, get pampered in the spa and more recently they have even added a pumpkin shooting target practice to the program.


Guests fly in to have lunch at the Elmhirst's Resort

Our final stop was the wine cellar which also holds a tasting table. Anne explained that the cellar is home to some of Canada’s best vintages from places like the Niagara Region, Prince Edward County, the North Shore of Lake Erie and British Columbia’s Okanagan Region. These are wines that can only be purchased at the winery or here at the resort as they are not available in the liquor store. Wine tastings are offered every week, and wine dinners have become a very popular event among the guests at the Elmhirst’s.


The wine cellar offers select Ontario vintages

After my whirlwind tour of this amazing family-owned resort, my head was still swirling with all the things to see and do at this resort. I have rarely seen such a broad range of activities and services offered by a hospitality establishment.


Arthur Elmhirst, World War II test pilot and one of the hospitality pioneers at the Elmhirst

Now it was on to my last stop of the day: an outdoor theatre performance at the locally renowned 4th Line Theatre. I drove about half an hour west from Keene to the village of Millbrook.
My evening program was a performance of “The Right Road to Pontypool”, the little known yet true story of the nearby village of Pontypool that became a summer haven for thousands of Jewish immigrants between 1916 and the early 1960s. Keep in mind that this was in an era when the signs at Sunnyside Beach in Toronto still said “No Dogs or Jews Allowed”.


The serene country view at the 4th Line Theatre, all part of the stage!

The 4th Line Theatre has been in existence for 19 years now and produced many award winning shows that focus on historic Canadian themes. Director Kim Blackwell explained to me the origin of this creative endeavour: Robert Winslow, the Artistic Director, is an actor, and inherited the 160 year old family farm from his mother in the 1980s. Not inclined to go into agriculture, he decided to turn the farm into a barnyard theatre and staged his first play there in 1992.


Kim Blackwell, the director of "The Right Road to Pontypool"

After two months of performances in front of completely sold out crowds it became clear that the audience was hungry for topics of historical Canadian relevance. Since then the theatre has held 22 world premiere productions that sometimes take up to 4 or 5 years to come to fruition. The theatre is unique in that it uses a combination of professional actors and local volunteers. The biggest production had a cast of 84 people, and today’s production involved 37 professional and amateur actors.


The barns are part of the backdrop at the 4th Line Theatre

All parts of the 100 acre farm are used - the three old barns as well as the surrounding fields. The action came at me from everywhere, and I was thoroughly impressed by the acting, the music and the complex choreography involved in coordinating so many actors. The atmosphere in this outdoor venue in the rolling hills of Peterborough is magical, and the Canadian topics definitely strike a chord with the audience.


Even the parking lot presents a romantic image at sunset

As the sun was setting, the play finished and the audience was slowly dissipating. To cap off the evening I stopped off in the charming historic village of Millbrook which was celebrating “Ladies Night”, a yearly event that closes off King Street with music, dancing, shopping, food and socializing. I had had another fascinating day in the Peterborough area and was looking forward to one more full day here.


The lovely country village of Millbrook

 


Related Articles:

A visit to the Peterborough Farmer's Market & a Lift Lock Cruise
The Canadian Canoe Museum & a trip to the Otonabee River at Golden Pathways B&B
A riverfront dinner at the Holiday Inn & an evening of great, free music at Little Lake Musicfest
An entertaining and educational visit to the Lang Pioneer Village
A tour of the Elmhirst's Resort on Rice Lake & a great performance at the 4th Line Theatre
Exploring the wonderful bicycling network in Peterborough with Pedal 'n Paddle
A cycling tour to the pretty town of Lakefield, kayaking down the Trent Canal & a ghost walk
A chat with my friendly hosts at the Beacon by the Bay B&B

Useful Links:

Peterborough & the Kawarthas Tourism
The Elmhirst's Resort
The 4th Line Theatre
My Flickr Album from my August 2010 trip to Peterborough
My Flickr Album for my July 2010 trip to Peterborough


Related Videos:

 


Stephen Elmhirst gives me an overview of the historic Elmhirst's Resort

 


Stephen shows me the aviation-inspired Wild Blue Yonder Pub

 


Chef de cuisine Michael Sterpin shows my lunch and talks about the cuisine at the Elmhirst

 

 
Anne Marshall shows me around the brand-new luxurious spa

 


Looking at the waterskiing at the waterfront of the Elmhirst's Resort

 


The gorgeous view from the top of the hill over Rice Lake and a picnic area

 

 

 
Talking with Angie, the trail guide, about the riding opportunities at the Elmhirst's Resort

 

 
Anne feeds the busy egg-laying chickens

 

 
Riding with Anne through the forest, talking about the Wild Women's Weekends

 


Anne shows me the runway where guests fly in to have lunch

 


Anne takes me into the wine cellar and tasting area

 


Talking with Kim Blackwell, Director of "The Right Road to Pontypool"

 

 
Conversing with the Stephanie, the General Manager, about the 4th Line Theatre

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