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August 6, 2010

Ontario Travel – Peterborough: Exploring Peterborough by Bicycle with Pedal and Paddle

After a fabulous long day with a visit to the Lang Pioneer Village, a tour through the Elmhirst's Resort and a great evening of outdoor theatre at the 4th Line Theatre, my last day in Peterborough had arrived. Early in the morning I relocated from the Golden Pathways B&B south of the city to another B&B right in the heart of town, next to Little Lake. My home for the night was the Beacon by the Bay Bed and Breakfast, where I was going to enjoy one more night in Peterborough in my one-bedroom suite on the top level of a historic home. I had a packed schedule today, but I quickly checked out my suite: it had a nicely equipped kitchen, stocked with all sorts of goodies, a nice bathroom and a spacious bedroom with a king-size bed and a balcony that provided one of the best views of Peterborough, overlooking Little Lake and the Centennial Fountain.


The Beacon by the Bay B&B, my home for the night

I briefly said hello to the owners, Jeff and Sheila Roberts, before I embarked on today’s adventures. The last two days had exposed me to quite a bit of Peterborough’s culture and heritage, but today was my outdoor adventure day – it was time for some pedaling and some paddling, to take advantage of some of the excellent outddoor opportunities in this city.


What a phenomenal view from right outside my B&B!

What I personally really like about Peterborough is that it’s extremely close to Toronto, as the drive takes less than an hour and a half. But in addition to that, the city offers a great bicycle trail network and the opportunity to go canoeing and kayaking right in the city. And that’s what I wanted to try out today.


Great views over the Otonabee River from the terrace of the Silver Bean Café

To start my adventure I drove just a few minutes north to Millennium Park, a linear park right next to the Otonabee River that was opened in 2001. This park is easily accessible from the downtown core and holds community events such as the DBIA Ribfest and the Greek Festival. The Silver Bean Café anchors the park and provides visitors with a great spot to relax with a cup of java and a gorgeous view of the river.


Lloyd Graham and his friend Clare, from Pedal and Paddle

Downstairs in the boathouse I met Lloyd Graham and his friend Clare, who run a company called Pedal and Paddle, offering kayak, canoe and bicycle rentals for active travelers. Lloyd has even added a pedal boat to his fleet. Now equipped with comfortable Norco bikes, we started our journey by cycling across the Otonabee River on an old railway bridge that is still in active use today. From here Lloyd pointed out well-known sights such as the modern complex of the Ministry of Natural Resources and the Quaker Oats factory, an important employer in Peterborough over the last century.


This old railroad bridge over the Otonabee River is still in use

After the bridge we turned south and Lloyd explained that the area east of the Otonabee River originally was a rather inexpensive neighbourhood because a major slaughterhouse was operating on the other side of the river, roughly where today’s Holiday Inn is located. The unpleasant smells from the abattoir definitely had a negative impact on the real estate prices downwind on the other side of the river. Today, many of these houses have been renovated and expanded, creating one of Peterborough’s most popular neighbourhoods.


Nice vistas over Little Lake open up during our bicycle ride

Further south we stopped to have a look at Little Lake, Peterborough’s wide body of water right in the heart of the city. The Peterborough Marina offers mooring to boaters as well as a restaurant with a nice open-air patio upstairs with a great view of the lake. Adjacent to the marina is Del Crary Park, location of the city’s Little Lake Musicfest which hosts free concerts every Wednesday and Saturday during the summer.


Looking at the Peterborough Marina in Del Crary Park

We also looked across the water at the Little Lake Cemetery, a historic cemetery that has been the last resting place for many prominent residents of Peterborough since 1850. The Centennial Fountain, located right in the middle of Little Lake, has become one of Peterborough’s most recognizable landmarks.


The Centennial Fountain, one of Peterborough's landmarks

Back on our bikes now, we continued our ride through a pleasant neighbourhood and started to chat about Lloyd’s background. He said he had worked in the financial services industry for 32 years, and on one cold February day, while commuting to Toronto, he thought to himself “there’s gotta be something else”. So he decided to take early retirement, went traveling and this experience inspired him to set up his own bicycle and canoe rental company. Through the grapevine he had heard that the city’s boathouse was available for rent. He approached them and had found a permanent home for his new company, Pedal and Paddle. In addition to rentals he also offers guided tours that combine the bicycling and kayaking experience.


The historic Quaker Oats factory, still in operation

North of Hunter Street we stopped to look across the river at one of Peterborough’s oldest factories: the Quaker Oats Plant, now owned by Pepsico, produces a variety of cereal products and energy drinks. The current building is the second factory since the original building burned down on December 11, 1916, causing 23 deaths. Just on the other side of the factory are several tennis courts that are owned by the factory that are fully accessible to the public.


Peterborough has many gorgeous cycling trails

We continued our tour northwards along the Rotary Greenway Trail, and Lloyd filled me in that the Peterborough Rotary Club has built over 40 km of trail in the city. As the former president of the Rotary Club, Lloyd put in place several important fundraising initiatives for the trail network, including the sale of blue spruces and the installation of sponsored benches with donor nameplates, one of which was sponsored by Lloyd himself.


Ecology Park is located on Peterborough's bicycle trail network

Due to these successful fundraising endeavours, bicycle trails now go across the northern and eastern part of the city as well as to the nearby villages of Omemee, Bridgenorth and Lakefield. Lloyd welcomes many European travelers from Holland, Scotland and Germany in Peterborough, and they love the extensive bicycling trail network as well as the water sports opportunities that are available in Peterborough.


Pansies say hello along the beautiful bicycle trail network in Peterborough

Several historical sights accompanied our ride along the Rotary Greenway Trail. We stopped at the Peterborough Mattress Company where a historical marker indicates that this factory was built in 1927. It had stood empty for a long time, but is currently in the process of being converted into apartments.


The historic Peterborough Mattress Factory is being revitalized

A bit farther north we stopped at Trent University, one of Canada’s best small universities. Established in 1964 it is a liberal arts and science university with more than 7000 undergraduate and about 300 postgraduate students. Lloyd explained the various parts of the campus which is located scenically on the east and west banks of the Otonabee River. Given its location right on the river, the university has a successful rowing club that hosts the annual Head of the Trent rowing regatta.


The waterfront campus of Trent University - how does anyone get any studying done here?

Farther along the path we stopped at the Promise Rock Nature Area, so named after a bizarre rock formation inside a forest that was used as an old Boy Scout Camp. Lloyd mentioned that in the 1950s and 1960s children would be brought out here blindfolded to keep the location of the camp a secret. The rock formation inside the dark forest definitely had a somewhat mysterious feel to it.


The mysterious Promise Rock area

Then we continued along a bucolic trail for the remainder of the way to Lakefield, a pretty village that has been a popular tourist destination since the late 1800s when railways and steamships took wealthy urban dwellers out into the beautiful nature areas of the Kawartha Lakes.


Related Articles:

A visit to the Peterborough Farmer's Market & a Lift Lock Cruise
The Canadian Canoe Museum & a trip to the Otonabee River at Golden Pathways B&B
A riverfront dinner at the Holiday Inn & an evening of great, free music at Little Lake Musicfest
An entertaining and educational visit to the Lang Pioneer Village
A tour of the Elmhirst's Resort on Rice Lake & a great performance at the 4th Line Theatre
Exploring the wonderful bicycling network in Peterborough with Pedal 'n Paddle
A cycling tour to the pretty town of Lakefield, kayaking down the Trent Canal & a ghost walk
A chat with my friendly hosts at the Beacon by the Bay B&B

Useful Links:

Peterborough & the Kawarthas Tourism
Beacon by the Bay B&B
Pedal and Paddle
My Flickr Album from my August 2010 trip to Peterborough
My Flickr Album for my July 2010 trip to Peterborough

 

Related Videos:

 
Beautiful morning views in Millenium Park

 


Lloyd fills me in on the plan for today: we'll be pedalling and paddling

 

 
Riding across the railway bridge in downtown Peterborough, looking at local sights

 

 
While we are cycling through a beautiful neighbourhood Lloyd tells me about how he started his business

 

 
Lloyd gives me a background on the historic Quaker Oats plant

 

 
Lloyd informs me about the Rotary Greenway Trail, a great recreational trail in Peterborough

 

 
Lloyd explains some of the fundraising efforts for the Rotary Greenway Trail

 


Looking at the scenic riverfront campus of Trent University

 

 
Lloyd shares the mysterious story of the "Promise Rock" area

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