October
3, 2006
Hello from Nova Scotia: 400 years of history
at Port-Royal
Following my introduction to the quaint and historic town of Annapolis
Royal I drove about 10 kilometers out of town across the causeway
on the north shore of the Annapolis River and arrived in one of
the most historic locations in north-eastern North America. Port-Royal
is a reconstruction of a settlement – a “Habitation”
of French settlers founded in 1605 by Sieur de Mons and Samuel de
Champlain and one of the earliest successful European settlement
attempts in North America. The settlement existed until 1613 when
it was burned to the ground by Captain Samuel Argall of Virginia.
My expert guide for this introduction to early French life in Canada
was Wayne Melanson, a ninth generation Acadian and twin brother
of Alan Melanson who I had already met at Fort Anne during my initial
discoveries of Annapolis Royal.
Interestingly, on my drive to Port Royal I noticed a sign saying
“Melanson Settlement”, a National Historic Site of Canada
which indeed refers to the forefathers of today’s Melanson
family. When I connected with Alan and Wayne Melanson, I realized
that I had tapped into a piece of living history and was excited
to learn more about their story.
The Melanson family goes back to the 17th century
Charles Melanson, the forefather of today’s Melanson family,
had come to today’s Annapolis River area with his wife Marie
Dugas in about 1664 and settled along the north shore of the river.
The Melanson Settlement was an agricultural community employing
the Acadian dykeland farming techniques that were unique in the
colonies. In 1755 Charles' son Ambroise and his family were deported
from the Annapolis area by the English as part of the Great
Expulsion (“le grand derangement”) once this area
changed from French to British ownership. Wayne explained that six
men, including Ambroise's son-in-law Pierre Bellieveau initiated
a mutiny on the boat and overpowered the crew. Pierre's son Amand
returned to settle in the Clare region in southwestern Nova Scotia.
To this day, some descendants of Charles Melanson are still living
right near the original homestead that he founded in the 17th century.
Wayne commented that despite this tragic past, people have survived
and preserved their cultural identity, a testament to human fortitude
and tenacity in the face of adversity. It was amazing to me that
after this great diaspora of Acadian settlers in the 18th century
two ninth-generation Acadian twin brothers would live and work right
next to their ancestors’ original settlement, both bringing
history to life for the area's visitors.
Wayne Melanson, my expert tour guide
Wayne is a presentation supervisor with Parks Canada, the federal
agency in charge of many of Canada’s most significant heritage
sites, and his appearance reflects the style of dress of early French
settlers in the area. He explained to me that today he was dressed
in the style of working class people with a simple shirt and pants,
covered by a heavy woolen cape against the cold. On his feet he
was wearing wooden clogs, a popular piece of footwear at the time.
The entrance gate to the Habitation
We entered the habitation through the wooden gate that features
the coat of arms of Henri IV, King of France in 1605 when the original
habitation would have been built. The coats of arms of the two governors,
Sieur de Mons and Sieur de Poutrincourt, are also represented above
the doorway.
The entire Port-Royal
complex consists of six attached wooden buildings located around
a central courtyard. The buildings were reconstructed from 1939
to 1940 and are a historically accurate replica of the original
habitation. This project was a result of the efforts of Harriet
Taber Richardson of Cambridge, Massachusetts who raised funds to
bring in a Harvard-educated archeologist for the authentic reconstruction
of this early French settlement.
Courtyard of the Habitation
The Port-Royal Habitation is an excellent example illustrating
the lifestyle and hardships of the early French settlers and fur
traders that settled in the eastern part of Canada. Wayne explained
that the original settlement held about 30 craftsmen and 15 gentlemen,
including a surgeon, a lawyer and a ship’s pilot. No women
were residing in Port-Royal.
The Forge
We started our walk at the forge where metal goods were produced
on site. The blacksmith was an important member of the community
because he produced the hardware needed for the upkeep of the habitation.
He also fabricated goods for trade with the Mi’kmaq First
Nations People which contributed directly to the settlements financial
well-being.
The Common Room, location of many feasts
The kitchen next door was a place where geese, rabbits and other
interesting dishes would be prepared and fresh bread would be baked.
The adjacent Common Room was decked out in 17th century style with
pewter tableware and was the location of frequent dinners of the
French settlers and Mi’kmaq natives. The “Order of Good
Cheer” was the first European social club, founded to while
away the long dark winter nights. Prominent members of the colony
took turns preparing a feast, arranging entertainment and preparing
delicacies such as fricasseed beaver tail and boiled moose nose.
Despite the harsh conditions at the early settlement, culture was
present at Port-Royal.
A Parisian lawyer by the name of Marc Lescarbot, spent the winter
of 1606-1607 at the Habitation and wrote a play called “The
Theatre of Neptune” which was first performed in November
of 1606. He also chronicled life in the habitation and his records
provide great insight into the daily challenges of early French
settlers.
The craftsmen's sleeping quarters
Wayne then introduced me to the second-story dormitory that at
the time would have held about 30 craftsmen, including joiners,
carpenters, masons, stonecutters, locksmiths and iron workers. These
men were required to work three hours a day at their trade and could
use the rest of their time to go fishing, hunting or tend their
gardens. A foot-powered spring pole lathe was made to turn wood
and create objects such as spindles, goblets and candlesticks. Wayne
gave me a demonstration of this contraption and the functionality
of this human-powered piece of equipment was astounding.
The foot-powered lathe
The apothecary next door was in charge of ensuring the health of
the early settlers. Various herbs would be crushed with a pestle
and mortar to provide remedies for common health problems. This
was a harsh environment and many of the original inhabitants did
not survive the harsh winters.
The apothecary
Several gentlemen’s quarters follow, each equipped with bunk
beds and draw curtains for privacy. Generally each room was inhabited
by two to four gentlemen and equipped with a table, chair, wardrobe,
a large bench and a fireplace. The largest sleeping quarters are
those of the Governor which are decorated with a smoked moose hide,
artwork originally produced by the Mi’kmaq natives which was
much admired by the French settlers. Wayne explained that moose
hide would often be worn to protect against the cold. The most effective
way was to wear the hairy side on the inside with the smooth part
facing outside.
Wayne introduces the decorative moose hide
The next building holds the fur storage area where furs from various
animals are displayed, including beaver, silver fox, bobcat, raccoon,
timber wolf, otter and lynx furs. Wayne informed me that beaver
fur was the most valuable fur since there was a big craze for beaver
fur hats at the European royal courts. Essentially the entire early
settlement of Canada was a result of Europe’s fashion hunger
for beaver fur. Rabbit fur was also used to make hats, but in order
to remove the keratin from the hair, mercury had to be used which
had severe effects on the mental health of the craftsmen producing
the hats. Wayne explained that this is where the expression “mad
as a hatter” comes from.
Fur Storage Room featuring different types of fur
When we entered the wine cellar, my expert guide pointed out that
every man who resided here received 1.5 pints (about 1 litre) of
wine a day. Wine was considered much healthier since much of the
water in the early communities was polluted due to poor sanitary
conditions. People would toss their slob buckets into the rivers,
effectively contaminating their own drinking water supply.
The wooden palisades enclosing the Cannon Platform
Next door we entered the trading room which was a room were barter
transactions for basic goods would take place. In a loft upstairs
a Mi’kmaq canoe as well as an original coffin is on display.
The steep roof would help the snow slide off during the long harsh
winters. Wayne then took me outside to the Cannon Platform from
where there is a great view over the Annapolis River. Any intruder
approaching the area could easily be seen from this platform.
Outside view of the Habitation
Outside the Habitation is a monument honouring Membertou, one of
the great Mi’kmaq chiefs who helped the French adapt and survive
in Acadia who together with his family was baptized in 1610. I thanked
Wayne Melanson for his great introduction to Port-Royal,
this early place of French history. On an increasingly cloudy day
I made my way back to Annapolis Royal, stopping to take some pictures
of a few beautiful house in Granville Ferry, the town located directly
across from Annapolis Royal. Prior to an earlier bridge and today’s
causeway, Granville Ferry was indeed the location of a ferry service
that would connect both towns by ship.
A stately mansion in Granville Ferry
Shortly after I arrived back in Annapolis Royal and was more than
ready for a tasty dinner.
And I would have a chance to see history brought to life in my much
anticipated Garrison
Graveyard Tour, to be presented by Alan Melanson, the other
member of this duo of historic experts.
Useful books about travel to Nova Scotia:
Related articles:
My five whirlwind days in Nova Scotia
Acadian
history at the Grand Pré National Historic Site
400 years of history at Annapolis
Royal
Port-Royal, a French habitation from 1605
Dinner at the Garrison House
in Annapolis Royal
The Annapolis Royal
Graveyard Tour
The Garrison House Bed and Breakfast
Exploring the Evangeline Trail from
Annapolis Royal to Yarmouth
Learning about Mi'kmaq heritage at the
Bear River First Nation Heritage and Cultural Center
Victorian heritage in Yarmouth
The MacKinnon-Cann Inn: Where Home
and Garden Television meets the Travel Channel
Yarmouth explained - the Yarmouth
County Museum
My car is in the ditch in Chebogue
River
The Lighthouse Trail from Yarmouth
to Shelburne
The Lighthouse Trail from Shelburne
to Lunenburg
The Town of Lunenburg - a UNESCO World Heritage
Site
An interview with the owners of the
Lunenburg Inn
The Lighthouse Trail from Lunenburg to
Halifax via Mahone Bay and Peggy's Cove
Arrival in Halifax and a stunning
musical performance - DRUM!
A Halifax city tour, the city's
connection to the Titantic and the 1917 Halifax Explosion
Exploring the Halifax Harbourwalk and
Pier 21 - Canada's immigration museum
A ferry trip to Dartmouth and saying
goodbye to Halifax
An interview with Pier 21 -
Canada's immigration museum
Helpful links for travel to Nova Scotia:
Tourism
Nova Scotia
Destination
South West Nova Scotia
Halifax Tourism
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