Hello from San Francisco – Arrival, Queen Anne Hotel
& Fisherman’s Wharf
A long and harsh winter can take the wind out of you and just make
you feel like you want to get away. And what a long winter it has
been: Toronto has experienced one of the harshest winters in a long
time, with near-record snow accumulation. I knew I had to get away
to warmer, sunnier place, even if it was just for a few days. I
started to think and looked at the map and – bingo –
I had the answer: San Francisco!
The City by the Bay has fascinated people for many decades now,
and a brief trip to San Francisco in 2001 had introduced me to the
extraordinary beauty of this unique metropolis. But I had just seen
the city in passing and decided it was time to explore San Francisco
in more detail and get reacquainted with it. So I called the Visitor
and Convention Bureau, and with their help I was able to lay out
an extremely packed four and a half day program that would bring
me up close with many of the unique areas of San Francisco.
My travel partner Leslie and I got a head start on February 20
with a late night drive from Toronto to Buffalo where we spent a
few quick hours in a hotel next to the airport and could park our
vehicle for our getaway. Among many savvy Canadian travelers, Buffalo
has become a bit of a secret travel savings tip since US-based flights
from Buffalo are often many hundreds of dollars less expensive than
the same destinations from Toronto. According to recent data, Toronto’s
Pearson International Airport has the most expensive airport taxes
in the world, so a quick jaunt to Buffalo can often save a few precious
travel dollars.
So day one of our San Francisco trip, February 21, 2008, started
with a wake-up call at 4:50 am. The hotel shuttle dropped us off
at the Buffalo Airport and even at 5:30 am, the waiting areas were
full of travelers lining up for their security checks. After a quick
stopover at Cincinnati Airport, where we had to run to the gate
to catch our connection flight, we arrived in San Francisco at about
11 am. Unfortunately the weather was not very welcoming: it was
drizzly, grey and cold.
We just arrived in San Francisco: Here's a look at the Orpheum Theatre
With the help of a variety of public transit vehicles we were going
to make it to our hotel. San Francisco, being relatively compact,
has a great public transit system, and its easy to get around, without
the need to rent a car. We first caught the Airtrain to transfer
to the BART Commuter Railway system and enjoyed a relaxing, yet
rainy ride downtown. We hopped off at the downtown Civic Centre
Station and got greeted by a grizzly grey sky, and with the assistance
of a helpful BART employee we found our way to the correct bus station
to catch the Number 19 MUNI bus. We travelled through the Tenderloin,
historically one of the rougher areas of San Francisco, which is
still experiencing significant poverty, homelessness and crime.
According to one local legend, this colourful neighbourhood got
its name because local policemen were supposedly paid more to work
there and could afford tenderloin steak.
Late afternoon view of the Queen Anne Hotel
Finally, after switching to another bus we had reached our home-away-from-home
for the next few days: the historic Queen
Anne Hotel, located at the intersection of Octavia and Sutter
Streets. We checked in and dropped off our luggage in a beautifully
decorated large corner bedroom that featured a large bay window
with a great westerly view. I found out that the hotel was a equipped
with high-speed Wi-Fi Internet access as well as with a computer
on the main floor that was freely accessible to all hotel guests.
Victorian splendour at the Queen Anne Hotel
Naturally this historic property caught my interest, and I needed
to find out more about the Queen Anne Hotel. I was able to locate
Michael Wade, the Director of Sales, who graciously volunteered
to give me a tour through this extensive property. The origins of
this imposing building go back all the way to 1890 when it opened
as “Miss Mary Lake’s School for Girls”, a finishing
school for young girls from upper class families. This San Francisco
Victorian landmark was built by Senator James G. Fair, who was one
of the Comstock Lode Silver “Kings” who became a millionaire
virtually overnight with the discovery of the first major U.S. Deposit
of silver ore. Two of his daughters also attended Miss Mary Lake’s
Finishing School for Girls.
Victorian colour schemes at the Queen Anne Hotel
When we walked into the hotel’s expansive parlour, Michael
explained that it actually used to be the gymnasium where the young
ladies learned how to ball-room dance and do calisthenics. The original
entrance to the school, with its opulent granite steps, impressive
main door and stained glass panels, had been located on the second
level, and it was not until some later renovations that the entrance
was relocated to the main floor.
Piano in the Parlor
Michael started by showing me the Parlor which is outfitted in
period furnishings and decorated in deep Victorian colours including
burgundy and gold. A roaring fireplace provided a cozy ambience,
and various hotel guests were sitting and chatting or reading the
newspaper, enjoying a warm and welcoming atmosphere more reminiscent
of an upscale and spacious private living room than an anonymous
hotel. What impressed me was that different groups of guests were
chatting with one another, creating a very communicative ambience.
The back of the Parlor features the Library, a cozy sitting nook
for guests who wish to relax with a book in front of another a fireplace.
A nice cozy fireplace
The front portion of the Parlor contains a picture of Senator James
G. Fair who was a big architecture fan and commissioned the construction
of this historic property as well of several others in San Francisco.
The history of this property gets even more interesting: for nine
years the building operated as “Miss Mary Lake’s Finishing
School for Girls”, and was then sold to “The Cosmos”,
an exclusive gentlemen’s club about which very little is known.
It then became the “Girls Friendly Society Lodge”, run
by the Episcopal Diocese, which was a home and haven for young working
women. The front portion of the Parlor still holds a safe that displays
the name of the Girls Friendly Society Lodge in gold lettering.
Numerous original Victorian pieces and furniture enhance the Queen
Anne Hotel.
The Salon welcomes guests at the Queen Anne Hotel
Every day from four to six pm the Parlor becomes a gathering place
for hotel guests when a table is set up with a complimentary afternoon
tea and sherry service up that entices with home-baked cookies in
different flavours. The Queen
Anne strives to make every guest feel right at home.
To the left of the Parlor is Salon or Breakfast Room which is also
often used for weddings and other special functions. The décor
again features deep rich colours like burgundy, cream and gold.
Doors lead out to a courtyard that is decorated with statues and
often used as a bar for special events. In the summer this area
opens up and guests can enjoy sitting outdoors. The architectural
features in this room include an original fireplace with original
sconces on the mantle and Victorian ceiling medallions in the shape
of little angels. Every morning hotel guests at the Queen Anne enjoy
a full American breakfast with fresh fruit, eggs, different types
of toasted breads, pastry and a variety of juices and beverages.
The Breakfast Room
Through an impressive staircase my tour continued upstairs to the
second floor. At the time of Miss Mary Lake’s School this
was the area of principal activity, and the main hallway still features
a geometric inlaid floor pattern and five-foot high paneling of
carved oak. A stained galls ceiling window floods the area with
natural daylight, and original Victorian ceiling medallions surround
all the light fixtures in the hallway.
An authentic Victorian-era stained glass window
Michael showed me around a variety of the hotel rooms and suites,
and definitely no two are alike. First we visited a Junior Suite
that featured a beautiful armoire with an old fire escape outside
the window. Like in many other suites, painted cherubs created by
a local artist added a little bit of whimsy to the room. All the
suites that I saw had comfortable beds, granite bathrooms, flat
screen TVs, clock radios and a convenience area appointed with a
fridge, microwave and coffee makers. Large desks are also part of
the standard features at the Queen
Anne Hotel, making it very popular with business travelers.
Large Victorian bedrooms at the Queen Anne Hotel
The variety of rooms that Michael showed me included standard rooms,
a one bedroom suite with a separate sitting room, a two bedroom
suite on two levels featuring two bathrooms as well as a a private
courtyard with a hand-painted mural. One of the crowing jewels was
the Honeymoon Suite, an elaborately decorated large suite with a
bay window, showcasing the “World’s Smallest Park”
across from the hotel. Two fireplaces, a huge mirror and a beautiful
bathroom set a very romantic mood for any travelers fortunate enough
to stay in this suite. All the rooms were outfitted in period décor
with antique furniture pieces and elaborate drapery, providing a
glimpse of what Victorian era living was all about.
The Honeymoon Suite
Having quenched my architectural curiosity, I thanked Michael for
showing me through the entire hotel. My travel partner Leslie and
I were now ready to set off and start our first explorations of
San Francisco. Our first explorations were going to include San
Francisco’s northern waterfront and Fisherman’s Wharf.
