During my double-decker bus sightseeing tour of
Madrid yesterday I had already got a good overview
of the city. Today it was time to deepen my knowledge
of Madrid, and I decided to do so with the help
of a local. After an early rise I had a simple breakfast
at a restaurant at the corner of the Plaza de España
and then made my way to a local business called
Bravo Bike Tours to embark on a bicycle tour through
Madrid. The owner, Kaspar Winteler, is a former
banker from Zurich and has lived in Madrid since
1972. When he retired from banking, Kaspar decided
to create a bicycle touring and rental business,
and he now offers bicycle tours in Madrid as well
as in other parts of Spain, Switzerland, France,
Croatia and other destinations throughout Europe.
Kaspar takes me on a bike tour of Madrid
Bravo Bike’s Madrid tours are anywhere from
three hours to a full day. The company also offers
guided and self-guided tours of the Saint James
Way, the famous Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage Route.
Other Spanish bicycling destinations include a tour
of Andalusia, a tour of the Wine Route in La Rioja,
and the Conquistadores Route through the lesser
visited regions of Spain. In addition, the company
also offers multi-day cycling adventures through
various European countries with accommodation in
local hotels, breakfast and optional half-board,
luggage transfers, maps, reduced admission to museums
and ferries, tours of local attractions and bike
rentals. Guide services are available on some of
the tour dates.
Our bike tour took us to the Templo de Debod
Now equipped with comfortable bicycles, we started
our cycling trip at the Templo de Debod, an ancient
Egyptian temple that was originally built in southern
Egypt in the 2nd century before Christ and was moved
to Madrid in 1968. From this location we had an
awesome view over the landscapes west of Madrid.
Down the hill we went into the Paseo del Pintor
Rosales rose garden and to the Goya Pantheon, the
church were famous painter Francisco de Goya is
buried. The church itself is adorned with frescoes
by this illustrious artist.
The Paseo del Pintor Rosales rose garden
Further down the street we stopped at the historic
Prinicpe Pio railway station which has been refurbished
in recent years. Known originally as the Estación
del Norte, this used to be an important interurban
train terminal while today it is a hub for commuter
trains. Then we started to climb back up the hill,
and I had to do my very best to keep up with Kaspar.
We even stopped in at the Otero Bike Shop which
has been in operation for 88 years and is run by
his friend Jesus. The shop indeed has many old bicycles
on display including a tandem bike from 1929.
Kaspar with his friend Jesus from the Otero Bike
Shop
Back up on the hill we rode into a neighbourhood
called the "Madrid de los Austrias", the
old centre of Madrid which was built during the
reign of the Habsburg dynasty. The Habsburgs ruled
Spain during its Golden Age when the kingdom amassed
immense riches from its colonies in Latin America.
In this atmospheric neighbourhood we stopped at
"El Madroño", a historic Madrid
restaurant that serves fantastic tapas. It also
features many tiled paintings depicting scenes from
Madrid's history.
One of the many colourful tile paintings at El Madroño
After a brief tortilla and churro snack at El Madroño
at we continued on to the "Restaurante Sobrino
de Botin", which, according to the Guinness
Book of World Records, is the world's oldest continuously
operating restaurant. Started in 1725, this unique
place specializes in preparing suckling pigs, a
Spanish delicacy. Sopa de ajo, garlic soup, is another
specialty at the Sobrino de Botin. Francisco Goya
even worked here as a waiter while he was waiting
to be admitted to Madrid’s Royal Academy of
Fine Art.
Suckling pigs at the famous Restaurante Sobrino
de Botin
Our next stop was on the Plaza Mayor, Madrid's
impressive main square, which measures 129 by 94
metres. Construction started in 1620 under the reign
of King Philip III. Kaspar explained that the plaza
was originally used as a bullring. The Casa de la
Panaderia (“the Bakery”) anchors the
square and houses various municipal offices and
cultural organizations.
The Plaza Mayor in Madrid
Then Kaspar whisked me away and we cycled to the
Puerta del Sol, Madrid’s other grand plaza
and the heart of the city. This is one of Madrid’s
busiest places and it is also home to Kilometer
Zero, the hub of Spain’s network of radial
roads. All road distances in the country are measured
from here. The Puerta del Sol was originally one
of the gates in Madrid’s medieval wall. From
the 1600s to the 1800s this was the location of
the city’s post office where all the couriers
and news-hungry people congregated. The Old Post
Office is now the office of the President of Madrid
who governs the Autonomous Community of Madrid.
The famous bear statue on Madrid's Puerta del Sol
The centre of the square is anchored by a Monument
to Charles III. We stopped at the famous statue
of the bear that is climbing a strawberry tree,
the symbol of Madrid. The Puerta del Sol is the
symbolic heart of Madrid, and has also become a
gathering place for rallies and protest, including
the protests against terrorism after the March 2004
bombings of the Atocha Railway Station.
One of the many impresive buildings on Madrid's
Calle de Alcala
Further north on the Calle de Alcala, Madrid’s
longest street, we admired the imposing early 20th
century architecture which features a variety of
bank buildings. Through smaller streets we then
cycled to the Literary District, El Barrio de las
Letras. This area was where many famous writers,
artists, scientists and politicians gathered. Some
of the greats of Spanish literature lived in this
neighbourhood including Miguel de Cervantes and
Lope de Vega.
The Spanish Theatre of Madrid
The Plaza de Santa Ana is in the heart of the Literary
District, anchored by the Spanish Theatre which
features the names of literary greats like Tirso
de Molina and Lope de Vega on its façade.
Kaspar mentioned that Cervantes lived around the
corner from here. Located in an elegant French-style
edifice, the Madrid Reina Victoria Hotel used to
be a department store and now is a magnet for after-work
crowds who enjoy a cocktail on its rooftop terrace.
Various tapas bars, restaurants and charming beer
cellars flank this atmospheric square.
The Plaza de Santa Ana
Still inside the Barrio de las Letras, we cycled
a bit further and stopped at the Casa del Abuelo.
This historic Madrid restaurant is known for the
best shrimp, prawns and sweet wine in the whole
city. Kaspar and I settled in for a plate of breaded
shrimp with a glass of local wine and started talking
more about Kaspar’s biking tours. I asked
my guide about his bike tours of the Camino de Santiago.
We took a little break in the Casa del Abuelo
Kaspar responded that about 30% of all travelers
on the ancient St. James Way complete their pilgrimage
by bicycle. His company offers various guided and
self-guided tours, most of which start in Burgos
and cover a distance of 500 km to Santiago de Compostela.
Travellers cycle about 60 to 70 km a day, stay in
comfortable 3 and 4 star hotels, get their luggage
delivered and can ride in the support van if the
get enough of the biking.
Another one of the tile paintings in Madrid, this
one for San Miguel beer
Just recently Kaspar welcomed a group of 30 Irish
students from Dublin who trekked 300 km by bicycle
from Leon to Santiago. Recent tour groups have included
groups from Venezuela, Mexico, the United States
and on his last Camino tour group Kaspar even had
a lady from Canada. The ancient Camino de Santiago
has experienced a true renaissance in recent years,
and it appears that cycling enthusiasts have discovered
it as well.
Kilometre Zero on the Puerta del Sol, the centre
of Spain's road network
We slowly made our way back to Kaspar’s office
near the Plaza de España. It was now early
afternoon and I asked my trusted guide for his suggestions
for the rest of the day. I was actually in the mood
for a day trip out of the city, so Kaspar suggested
that I take a bus to the ancient city of Segovia.
I was looking forward to a little excursion out
of Madrid.
