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May 28, 2010

Spain Travel – Asturias: Exploring the Picos de Europa

My day began with a nice breakfast overlooking the town of Cangas de Onís, a pretty town of about 6700 people that is embedded in the Picos de Europa region in the northern Spanish province of Asturias. I was staying at the Hotel La Cepada whose elevated location on a hillside provides amazing views over the town below. The weather had cleared up since yesterday and fortunately the rain had stopped.


A great view from the Hotel La Cepada

Just after 9 am my local expert guide, Juan Feliz, came to pick me up. Juan runs a local outdoor adventure company called www.fronteraverde.com which offers all sorts of activities, from canoeing and canyoning on the Sella River, to hiking, trekking and caving. Recommended by Turismo Asturias, he was the perfect guy to introduce me to the Picos de Europa, the limestone mountain chain that runs along northern Spain.


Juan Feliz, my adventure guide for today, on the Roman Bridge of Cangas de Onís

We began with a walk through the town of Cangas de Onís, which was the capital of the Kingdom of Asturias until 774 AD. In nearby Covadonga, Christian forces under Don Pelayo won a critical battle over the Moors, which triggered the start of the Reconquista, the Christian reconquest of Spain from its Muslim invaders. Our first major sight as we walked into town was the “Puente Romano”, the Roman bridge over the Sella River, which actually was built during medieval times. The bridge is a rather unusual structure, with its large arch that culminates in a triangular peaked walkway, and four smaller arches. A Christian cross is suspended from the highest point of the arch of this designated Historic Artistic Monument.


The Roman Bridge in Cangas de Onís

During our stroll into town Juan told me a bit more about himself. His entire family is from this area, but Juan, given his adventurous spirit, has lived in Madrid, Oviedo, France, Germany and even Pensacola, Florida. After completing a university degree and all his international travels, he moved back to Arriondas where together with his father, he decided to open an outdoor adventure company in 1999. Today about 70% of his clientele comes from different parts of Spain while about 30% come from other parts of Europe, the United States and Canada. He added that North Americans have been coming here for a long time.


The parish church of Cangas de Onís

We had now reached the main square of Cangas which is anchored by an attractive church and a big statue of Don Pelayo, the local hero who defeated the Moors. On the main street we walked by a miniature model of the Picos de Europa mountain chain and Juan explained all the different peaks and valleys to me. In some of the gorges there is an altitude difference of 2000 metres between the river and the mountain. The Picos de Europa are definitely a magical destination for any outdoor enthusiasts.


Don Pelayo stands guard on the main square of Cangas de Onís

Juan also took advantage of our walk to introduce me to some of the gastronomic specialties of Asturias. We walked into an attractive store called “La Barata” that carries a variety of typical Asturian food items. Since its inception in 1934, La Barata has been one of the most popular specialty grocery stores in Cangas.


An antique cash register at La Barata

The store carries a variety of local beans (a key ingredient in the famous Asturian bean stew called “fabada”), a wide range of Asturian cheeses, different varieties of cider (the regional drink of Asturias), sausages as well as a selection of local cookies, candy, honeys, jams, spices and condiments. All the local Asturian delicacies are on offer here at La Barata.


Lots of different Asturian cheeses are available at La Barata

After our explorations in Cangas Juan and I drove up into the mountains where we parked the vehicle and walked for about 20 minutes on a forested pathway to the La Molina River. This is the starting point for the canyoning experiences that Fronteraverde offers. I have never gone canyoning, so I did not have a clear idea of what’s involved here. But it basically entails rappelling down to the river and from that point forward could involve swimming, walking, scrambling and climbing through the narrow, rocky river valley. A wet suit is a necessity for this activity.


Juan takes me on a hike to the La Molina River

Today we opted for a softer type of adventure as we hiked back up from the river which gave me a chance to find out more about Juan Feliz. During the downtime in his business in the winter, he actually loves to travel himself and has been to the Philippines, and more recently to Mozambique where he worked on an ecological resort. This winter he went to Andalusia in southern Spain which offers much warmer temperatures than the north of the country. Juan is an adventurer through and through!


Great nature experiences await in the Picos de Europa

The sun was coming out nicely now as we drove on the narrow country roads of the Asturian mountains. We stopped in a pretty village called Asiegu which is a typical Asturian mountain village. Juan explained that in the Picos de Europa most of the villages are located on the southern slopes of the mountains because the north-facing slopes receive very little sunlight during the day.


The mountain village of Asiegu

We walked on narrow streets past a number of stone houses before we arrived at our destination: a cider house that was founded by brothers Manuel and Javier Niembro to introduce visitors to the typical gastronomy in an Asturian mountain village. The brothers wanted to preserve the cultural and culinary heritage of their region and now they make this experience available to travellers from all over.


Manuel Niembro introduces me to Asturian mountain cuisine and cider

Their company is called “Ruta’l Quesu y la Sidra” (the "Cheese and Cider Route" in the local Asturian dialect) and it provides a two hour tour of the village and well as a sit-down meal. Visitors get to see a cheese factory where the local cabrales goat cheese is made. A visit to a cave where the cheese matures is included as well. They also learn about rural life and agricultural traditions in Asturias before they get to sit down and sample some typical Asturian delicacies. The menu includes cabrales cheese, corn cakes, bean paste, a cod omelette, boiled eggs, homemade croquettes, Asturian chorizo sausage, and a pecan pie for dessert. All this is accompanied by cider from Manuel and Javier’s own production.


Manuel and Javier's grandmother Guillermina acted as the inspiration behind their venture

Inside an Asturian farm house with a wooden ceiling and a stone roof, we first saw a video that introduced us to the details of cider production. Then Manuel showed us the ceiling-mounted spigots that bring in the cider from holding tanks in the next room. The spigots are mounted on the ceiling because in Asturias cider is always poured from above the head. If there is no overhead spigot, people raise the bottle high above their head and pour the cider in a long stream down into the waiting glass. This unusual method of pouring is intended to aerate the cider.


The two ladies from Asturian television and me (middle)

Then - what a big surprise - Asturian television showed up to film me while I was interviewing Manuel. The arrival of a Toronto-based travel journalist was apparently big enough news to draw out the local television crew. This was a first for me, getting filmed while I was interviewing Manuel! The two young ladies from Asturian television were very nice and they were planning to accompany us to our next destination.


The Cares River Gorge

Juan packed me in his car and we drove down the mountain into the Cares River Valley. This valley cuts deeply into the surrounding mountains, and the Cares River Gorge is one of the most popular hiking routes in the Picos de Europa. The road is also a popular drive for motorists who love scenic mountain routes. In truly awe-inspiring fashion, the walls of the mountains ascend almost vertically from the river bed.

 


Mountain views in Camarmeña

After turning off the main road and ascending through a number of switchbacks, we stopped in Camarmeña, a picturesque high-altitude mountain village that features a gorgeous view towards the Naranjo de Bulnes, one of the highest mountains in the Picos de Europa mountain massif. Although the weather was a little overcast, we enjoyed the awe-inspiring mountain panorama. Asturian television was still filming me as I took my photos of this unique location while mountain goats were munching away on grass completely undisturbed by all the commotion.


Another interview with Asturian Television, this time in Camarmeña

It was now late afternoon and my stomach was definitely growling. After we finished our shots with Televisión Asturias, we drove down the mountains into a village called Arenas where we stopped for a very late lunch in a rustic local restaurant. Juan ordered liver soup and pork with cabrales sauce while I requested "pote", a local Asturian stew with beans, kale and potatoes. Our hearty dishes certainly hit the spot before we drove back to Cangas de Onís.


Pote, my Asturian bean stew

From here we made one more attempt to visit the glacial lakes Enol and Ercina, high above the pilgrimage village of Covadonga. But as yesterday, the fog had rolled in and the weather was getting worse by the second. Soon the mountains were completely enshrouded in a thick grey soup and there was no way I was going to see the beautiful Lakes of Covadonga or the impressive mountain panorama surrounding them. With my packed schedule in Asturias, there was no chance of me seeing these gorgeous mountain lakes this time; reason enough for me to travel back to Asturias some time the future…


Lookout point above Covadonga in the Picos de Europa

So we drove down the mountain again and Juan dropped me off at my comfortable home for the night, the Hotel La Cepada, where I enjoyed a nice warm night inside, looking out the large picture windows at the lit-up town of Cangas in the rain. Hopefully tomorrow the weather was going to be better for my explorations of the coastline of Asturias.

 


Useful Links:

Turismo Asturias - the official tourism agency for Asturias
Hotel La Cepada in Cangas de Onís
My Flickr photo collection of my Asturias trip
Outdoor adventures with Fronteraverde

 

Related Articles from Europe 2010 and others:

Asturias Travel: Arrival in Oviedo - the capital of Asturias
Asturias Travel: Pre-Romanesque Santa Maria del Naranco & the La Balesquida Festival
Asturias Travel: A visit to Gijón, the largest city in Asturias
Asturias Travel: A bicycling adventure on the Bear Trail
Asturias Travel: Exploring Bermiego, Quiros, San Martin de Teverga & the La Huerta Cave
Asturias Travel: Exploring Cangas de Onís and Covadonga
Asturias Travel: Discovering the Picos de Europa
Asturias Travel:The Tito Bustillo Prehistoric Cave and a scenic walk in Ribadesella
Asturias Travel: Exploring Llanes, a mountain drive & hospitality at La Posada de Babel
Asturias Travel: Exploring the Asturian coast, Colombres & the Cares mountain valley
Spain Travel: Salamanca - A destination for Spanish language learning
Madrid Spain Travel: A sightseeing tour of Madrid's main attractions
Madrid Spain Travel: A Bicycle Tour in Madrid
Madrid Spain Travel: An Excursion from Madrid to Segovia
Madrid Spain Travel: The Palacio Real, the Rastro and Buen Retiro Park
Rome Travel: A sightseeing tour of Rome and a trip to Ostia
Rome Travel: A walking tour of Rome's main sights
Rome Travel: A bicycle tour on the ancient Via Appia
Rome Travel: A train trip to Frascati
Rome Travel: A panoramic bicycle tour of the Vatican and Old Rome
Rome Travel: A train trip to Orvieto, an ancient hill town
Spain Travel - Mallorca: A link to my 2009 trip to Mallorca (11 articles)
Spain Travel - Tenerife: Video clips from my 2006 trip to Tenerife
Spain Travel: A link to my 2004 trip to Barcelona, Valencia and Ibiza (8 articles)

 


Related Videos:

 
Juan takes me on a walk through Cangas de Onís

 

 
Authentic Asturian delicacies at La Barata and views of the Roman Bridge

 

 
Juan and I go on a hike to the La Molina River

 


Asiegu, a real Asturian mountain village where a cider tasting and local television are waiting for us

 

 
Impressive mountain views from the village of Camarmeña

 


 

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