Hello from Austria: A Country Drive and
How Determination and Willpower Can Move Mountains
Finally, after the rather
rainy day yesterday I opened my curtains to an absolutely gorgeous
day today. The lush green Alpine foothills and mountains surrounding
Weiz were competing with the brilliant blue sky to catch my attention
and naturally I had to get out on the road and explore. I started
with a visit to the large pilgrimage church in my home town of Weiz.
It is assumed that a church, more specifically a Roman basilica,
was located on the hill above Weiz already around the middle of
the 11th century. Due to poor lighting conditions inside the church,
this building was remodeled several times, until in the mid 1700s
a decision was finally made to replace the church with a new building.
Construction on the new baroque style church began in 1757 and was
finally completed in 1776.
The "Weizbergkirche", a jewel of baroque construction
The Weizbergkirche is a very imposing house of worship and was
a well-known pilgrimage church, as early as the 12th century. It
became a very popular pilgrimage destination in the 17th century,
but since then the number of pilgrims has dropped substantially.
It is the largest church in the district capital of Weiz, and a
landmark that can be seen on virtually every postcard of my home
town. I was particularly amazed when I walked inside the church
and saw the renovated 18th century frescoes that are once again
impressing visitors with their astounding colours and details since
their recent renovation.
The high altar
Directly in front of the church is an elevated plateau from where
there is a great view over the town and the surrounding area. A
sculpture called the “Balance Beam” reminds people of
the transience of life. On the southern slopes of this hill is the
cemetery of Weiz which features many graves going back several hundred
years. One of the most famous graves in this cemetery belongs to
Aurelia Schwarzenegger, mother of that most famous Austrian export:
Arnold Schwarzenegger.
The adjacent cemetery
I then hopped into my car and drove up to the next higher hill,
the so-called “Landscha”, which also overlooks the town
and has been a very popular residential area for decades due to
its great views. The top of the plateau features a forest and agricultural
fields and is a popular destination for joggers and bicyclists.
From here I drove into the forest and turned eastwards into a mountain
valley called Ponigl.
Outside view
Just a few minutes outside of town, this area is nevertheless very
rural, remote and agricultural. Various farms, some centuries old,
are dotted throughout the countryside and still actively involved
in agriculture, be it growing corn or raising cattle. The valley
ends in a dead end and only forest roads and hiking trails will
take you up into the surrounding mountains. One area close by is
known as the “Galgenwald” (Gallow’s Forest), an
area where local criminals were hanged until a couple of centuries
ago. Many legends surround this area and to this day there is an
area that features three stone columns that were used a long time
ago for executions by the regional court.
The organ of the Weizbergkirche
Past the quaint village of Oberdorf I continued to my next destination:
Schloss Thannhausen (the Castle of Thannhausen), an extensive country
estate that was originally mentioned as early as 1177. The current
version of the castle was constructed in Renaissance style in the
1500s and features a stunning inner courtyard with rounded-arch
arcades. On a regular basis this courtyard is used for concerts
and provides a perfect backdrop for musical enjoyment.
Schloss Thannhausen, a Renaissance castle
After a quick drive back and through the town I headed into the
“Weizklamm” (the Weiz River Gorge), a steep incision
into the surrounding limestone rocks that drop vertically down to
the Weizbach. Interestingly, a main regional road has been built
into the rocks and is so narrow in some parts that is impossible
for two vehicles to pass each other.
Coats of arms above the entranceway
I filmed the entire 2.5 km drive through the Weizklamm and quite
often I had to stop and let one of the many transport trucks that
frequent this road pass. Mirrors in the corners help drivers see
whether there is traffic approaching, and the locals are very used
to driving on this narrow road in between the rocks. On top of the
rock cliffs there is a hiking trail called the “Jägersteig”
(Hunter’s Trail) which provides great views over the surrounding
mountains and the gorge.
The country church of St. Kathrein am Offenegg
Past the gorge there is a fork in the road: on the left side you
will reach the country village of Passail, and on the right side
you continue beside the river to a small hamlet called Schmied in
der Weiz. I turned right and decided to take a steep country road
up to the mountain village of St. Kathrein am Offenegg, a popular
tourist destination with several hotels, restaurants and bed and
breakfasts.
The parish church of St. Kathrein am Offenegg
St. Kathrein offers many hiking trails, an educational forest trail,
a publicly accessible herb garden as well as skiing in the winter.
Settled already in Celtic-Nordic times, German settlers moved into
the area in the 11th century. A church was mentioned as early as
1295 and the current church was modified and enlarged several times
over the centuries. I walked around and into this small country
church which is surrounded by a cemetery and offers a beautiful
view westwards towards the Passail Basin.
Graveyard in St. Kathrein
After a lovely lunch at my friend Andrea’s place, her whole
family and I embarked on another adventure: a guided tour of the
“Katerloch”,
a limestone cave that features the largest number of dripstones
in all of Austria. Following a beautiful 15 minute drive through
serene rolling hills surrounding the hamlet of Dürntal we arrived
at the entrance of the cave.
Entrance to the Katerloch cave
A group of about 20 or 25 people was already waiting, and the owner
of the cave, a young man by the name of Fritz Geissler, was ready
to take us on our guided tour. At 30 Euros, the guided tour is not
exactly an inexpensive venture, but Fritz explained to us that the
upkeep of the cave is costly and the price acts as an important
filter that keeps out undesirable visitors who might not have a
real interest in this natural wonder. His concerns are justified
since over the last decades visitors have done considerable damage
to the cave and broken off dripstones to take home as a souvenir.
Fritz Geissler explains the exploration of the cave
We started to congregate at the entrance of the cave and Fritz
explained that the name of the cave “Katerloch” is composed
of the term “Eulenkater” (a male owl) and “Loch”
(hole), indicating that owls inhabit this cavern and regularly fly
in and out of the cave, particularly from fall to spring. Right
at the entrance we saw a limestone stone column that measured 22
meters in height with a circumference of 46 meters. Fritz would
lead the way and the crowd would follow single file on the narrow
pathways and steep metal ladders that connect the different sections
of the cave.
Descending into the cave on steep trails
Fritz explained that the former owners and explorers of the cave
were a married couple by the name of Hermann and Regine Hofer. The
couple had arrived from out of town at the cave in 1951 after an
extended honeymoon and settled to modernize another limestone cave
nearby – the “Grasslhöhle”. With admission
revenues from the other cave, Hermann and Regine Hofer were able
to pay for the exploration of their beloved Katerloch which became
their life-long project. Between the years 1952 and 1955 the couple
discovered different portions of the cave, started to excavate tunnels
and connection points and initiated the electrification of the cave.
The Hall of Phantasy
Fritz told us about the tedious, backbreaking and cumbersome work
that was involved in making this cave accessible to the public.
Each of the 400 concrete steps leading 135 metres down into the
mountain had to be hand-built and the cement had to be carried in
by the bucket through narrow passageways. New openings into other
caverns were detected by means of candlelight whose flickering indicated
that there was air movement and a potential connection into another,
as yet undiscovered part of the cave.
Remembrance of a bishop's visit of the cave
The cave consists of several portions: right beside the entrance
is the so-called “Marteldome”, a 45 m deep vertical
shaft that the couple initially used to access the cave. Another
large cavernous space is the “Fantasiehalle” (Hall of
Phantasy), a space with a length of 120 metes, a width of 85 metres
and a height of 15 metres, which features a great variety of interestingly
shaped dripstones. Fritz Geissler pointed out limestone corals;
delicate white and coloured limestone curtains, and stalagmites
and stalactites that were in various stages of growing together
until they form fully connected columns.
Amazing limestone formations
He explained that the age of the stones varies widely, some of
the younger ones could be tens of thousands of years old, while
the older massive columns would date back many millions of years.
Fritz Geissler mentioned that Hermann Hofer often said that “1000
human years are but a single second in the life of this cave”,
a comment that will certainly put our daily human concerns and worries
into a broader perspective. Our guide also pointed out bones of
a cave bear, an extinct mammal species about 30% bigger than the
Brown Bear which became extinct after the last ice age about 20,000
years ago. Large colonies of bats still inhabit this cave.
Limestone corals
In 1955 Hermann and Regine Hofer finally discovered the “Zauberreich”
(Enchanted Kingdom), a cavern that features an entire selection
of magical royalty-inspired limestone structures, including a king,
a queen, some knights and even a royal lapdog. Not far away is a
huge ice-cream shaped limestone cone whose story is also fascinating:
Fritz Geissler elaborated that a wealthy American man once wanted
to buy the mighty dripstone, proposed to pay a huge sum of money
for it and to drill a vertical tunnel straight through the mountain
to extricate the dripstone. But the cave’s owners, Hermann
and Regine Hofer, both deeply religious and modest people, not surprisingly
rejected the generous offer out of hand. The integrity of the cave
was more important to them than material gain.
A giant icecream cone - the Monument Stone
We still continued our walk downwards and finally reached the deepest
part of the publicly accessible portion of the cave: the “Seenparadies”
(Lake Paradise), an underground lake and a truly magical sight.
A turquoise-green iridescent water surface is punctuated by alabaster-white
stalagmites and stalactites, surrounded by stunning vertical walls.
Our entire group stopped to take in this breathtaking subterranean
lake paradise. We had reached the deepest part of the tour, 135
m below the cave’s entrance and after absorbing this enchanted
environment we made our way back up to the surface the same way
we came in.
The "Seenparadise" (Lake Paradise)
Our underground adventure had taken about two hours, and on the
way up Fritz Geissler told us more about the eccentric yet determined
couple that explored this cave and made it accessible to the public.
The key phrase he used was that “determination and willpower
can literally move mountains”, and Hermann and Regine Hofer’s
tenacity led to the discovery of new sections of the cave and it
was only their backbreaking excavation work and their construction
of the ladders and pathways that made it possible for regular people
to visit and enjoy the cave.
Limestone curtains
The Hofers provided public tours of the cave from the 1960s to
the 1980s but then closed the cave since visitors were causing so
much damage. Fritz Geissler had been one of the visitors of the
cave and offered his help to Hermann Hofer in maintaining the cave.
His mentor accepted his help and from this point forward Fritz Geissler
became Hermann Hofer’s apprentice. In his later years (Hermann
Hofer passed away in 2003 at the age of 95), he was looked after
by our guide Fritz Geissler and decided to pass his life’s
passion, the Katerloch, on
to the much younger man who was honoured to continue the legacy.
A memorial to the original explorers, Hermann and Regine Hofer
After extensive renovations in 2004 the Katerloch was finally opened
to the public again, and Fritz Geissler’s indepth knowledge
and highly developed speaking skills have been making his cave tours
a special attraction in the whole region. I had a chance to interview
this remarkable young man afterwards and he also mentioned that
he is now offering a mental strength training program that integrates
the cave experience into the training sessions. Our entire group
was quite taken with our cave adventure and the enthusiastic and
informative presentation of our guide, and many people lingered
for a while to chat and connect.
Our guide Fritz Geissler holds up a bone of a cave bear
The visit to the Katerloch was the perfect introduction to my planned
hike tomorrow: a hike though the adjoining Raabklamm, a deep river
gorge which is framed by the very mountains that hold these caves.
So after a tasty barbecue at my friends Andrea and Herbert’s
place that featured delicious pork chops and a young kitten chasing
a pet rabbit, I rested up for a big
hiking tour tomorrow.