Mexico Travel – Retire
in Mexico: A Bus Trip to Ajijic To Learn about One
Canadian’s Retirement Dream
I got up early again to download all my photos
from my Lake Chapala trip yesterday and headed to
the Guadalajara Language Center, my Spanish school,
at about 8:30 am. Located in the pretty neighbourhood
of Tlaquepaque, the school is literally less than
two minutes away from the house of the family I
am staying with. Most foreign language students
usually receive two or three meals a day when they
stay with a family, but since I am out so much I
figured it was easier if I just bought myself some
cereal and some milk to fix myself a simple breakfast
without needing to bother my elderly hostess Graciela.
Before class I got on one of the free computers
again at the language school to check my email and
upload some Twitter posts to keep my readers updated.
Then punctually at 9 am our teacher Miguel started
my third lesson this week. Today we continued with
our translation exercises, translating several paragraphs
of the book “The House on Mango Street”
by Sandra Cisneros. Even though we are all at an
intermediate or advanced level of Spanish, the translation
exercises really humbled everyone’s perceptions
of their own Spanish language skills. At the same
time, I enjoy translation exercises because it really
compels you to apply your language skills and try
to recreate content in the most accurate manner
- a very worthwhile exercise.
The rooftops of Tlaquepaque, in the foreground the
cultural centre El Refugio
By 11 am we went on break and since I am enrolled
in the two-hour a day program I was finished for
the day and ready for my explorations. My plan today
was to travel back to Lake Chapala to meet a former
Canadian teacher who had decided to retire in Mexico.
Retiring abroad has long been a topic that I have
been very interested in, and today I would have
the chance to meet someone who has actually done
it.
So I checked with Wouter, the owner of the Guadalajara
Language Center, how to get to Ajijic which is about
an hour away by car. He explained I had to walk
north a couple of streets, stand at a certain intersection
(there are no official bus stops in this part of
Guadalajara) and look for bus number 80 to El Alamo.
I followed his instructions and was able to find
the waiting area for the bus.
Another popular place in Tlaquepaque: El Parián
with its 18 restaurants
A 15 minute bus ride later I got off and asked
for the bus to Ajijic. Fortunately the locals were
very helpful and friendly, but they told me I was
at the wrong station. I had to take one more bus
to get to the right bus stop and take a third bus
from there. My second bus arrived at that moment
and people literally pushed me on to the right bus.
I was amazed at their helpfulness and the concern
that they showed to get me to the right destination.
Some of the locals informed the second bus driver
where I was trying to go and he made sure to tell
me which exit to get off the bus to catch my connection
to my final destination.
Once arrived at the third bus stop I had to wait
almost half an hour to catch the third bus which
would end up taking me to Lake Chapala and the village
of Ajijic, one of Mexico’s popular retirement
destinations for gringos. Bus tickets were being
sold by two ticket vendors who were walking around
selling tickets from a big bundle of preprinted
fare blocks. There was no fixed ticket window.
Views of Tlaquepaque: the arcaded courtyard of City
Hall
Finally around 1:20 pm I caught the third bus and
arrived 40 minutes later in Ajijic. My local retirement
expert, Greg Clarke, welcomed me in his shorts and
a bright t-shirt with a beer in hand. In Canada
walking around publicly with an open beer would
be a punishable offence; in sunny Ajijic it’s
just part of daily life. Greg is a former high school
teacher who was teaching English as a Second Language
courses in Toronto’s east end in 2008. After
he retired he made his permanent move to sunny Mexico
although he had already been visiting the Lake Chapala
for many years since 1998.
Greg Clarke, a retired teacher, moved from Toronto
to Ajijic on Lake Chapala
After retiring Greg decided to sell his home in
Toronto and ended up buying a condo in Ajijic. He
now lives full time in Mexico and only occasionally
travels back to Canada to visit some friends and
family. From the first minute I met him I realized
that this person is truly happy here with his new
life.
We started walking eastwards on Ajijic’s
main street until we hit a side street that was
full of traveling merchants, all part of the weekly
Wednesday market called “tianguis”.
A very colourful event indeed, we strolled through
and admired all the colourful woven goods, pottery,
vegetables and fruits. I asked Greg what it’s
like to live in Ajijic and he answered with a very
poignant statement: it’s like being on a cruiseship
– you can do as little or as much as you want.
Fruits at the weekly market in Ajijic
Greg himself keeps quite busy, he is currently
rehearsing for a musical called “The Boyfriend”
that will be running for eleven performances in
April. He currently practices six days a week for
four or five hours each time. He is also part of
a barbershop quartet as he has always had a penchant
for music and the performing arts. In addition,
he plays poker four or five times a week and takes
part in mini hold’em tournaments on Saturdays.
Being a music lover, he also likes to sing karaoke
on Monday nights when several friends gather in
a local restaurant and just have a blast singing
some of their favourite tunes. Ajijic offers diverse
opportunities for people who want to participate
in these types of endeavours.
Locally weaved products for sale
During our stroll we talked about many of the practical
things that future retirees need to know about relocating
to Mexico. The healthcare system, for example, is
quite developed and dental and medical care is quite
good and very affordable. At some point Greg had
developed an infection in his leg; he said he paid
about $15 for a visit to a private doctor and another
$30 to $35 in medication.
Beautifully painted plates at the market in Ajijic
As far as language skills are concerned, the cruise
ship analogy appeared to apply here as well. There
are some expatriate retirees who essentially get
by with extremely basic Spanish skills and essentially
do most of their transactions with local English-speaking
merchants and shopkeepers while other people intensely
immerse themselves in learning and practicing Spanish
as much as they can. From Greg’s descriptions
I gathered that Lake Chapala offers a very easy-going
lifestyle where people can choose how much they
want to get involved.
The market in Ajijic
This type of environment also seems to keep people
young; Greg told me of a 92 year old expat who is
participating in his theatre production. Of course
it helps that this kind of lifestyle in the sun
with a perfect climate is affordable as well. Greg
mentioned that a well equipped two-bedroom apartment
could be going for US$ 250 to 300 a month. At the
beginning when he arrived here Greg stayed at a
bed and breakfast called La Paloma where the cost
for a night might be between $55 and $80. In the
end Greg decided to buy a condo so he would not
constantly have to search for new rental apartment
every time he returned from Canada. He loves living
there now, and his Mexican girlfriend has become
his private language tutor.
Local street food in Ajijic
Utilities are also very affordable: gas and electricity
might cost about US$ 30 a month. Telephone costs
would be about the same and Internet access is quite
easy to obtain through the Mexican Telmex communications
company. Many foreign retires hire local gardeners
and housekeepers at comparably reasonable prices.
After the outdoor market Greg took me inside a
local supermarket which was well-stocked with a
wide variety of goods that would keep most Americans
and Canadians happy. Next door we went to a liquor
store that was stocking international and Mexican
wines and spirits. Compared to Canada, alcohol prices
are very low, particularly for local brands of tequila,
Mexico’s national drink.
Colourful textile products at the market in Ajijic
Greg had almost finished his beer so it was time
to head into one of the local restaurants now. We
went to La Bodega, a cozy place with a nice interior
courtyard, and sat down for about half an hour.
Greg knew the owner Marta very well because this
is the restaurant where he sings karaoke once a
weak. I had my favourite, sopa azteca (tortilla
strip soup), and Greg had some tasty guacamole.
My stomach was grumbling and I really needed this
lunch.
The restaurant La Bodega
Strengthened again we continued our walk, briefly
headed down to the waterfront where the Tequila
Republic restaurant entices visitors to sit down
on the pier, and then walked back up on the Calle
Morelos. We briefly popped into a restaurant called
Los Telares (the looms) which had a gorgeous interior
courtyard. A few steps away on the other side was
El Tango restaurant, which also had a very picturesque
inner courtyard. At the end of my visit in Ajijic
we dropped in on a local merchant, Diana, who hails
from Connecticut and sells art from all across Mexico.
Greg seemed to know everyone in town.
The market in Ajijic
At about 4:30 I said goodbye to Greg and thank
him for his enjoyable insider tour of Ajijic. Back
on the bus I was wondering whether I could ever
retire in a sunny place like Mexico. Greg certainly
seemed to be very happy here, but every person has
to decide for themselves what works for them.
Back in Tlaquepaque I got ready for my evening
invitation: a dinner with some of the other Canadian
language students from the Guadalajara Language
Center. Bonnie, Turnie and Joyce were all in their
fifties and hailed from places like British Columbia
and different towns in Ontario. They were all here
in Guadalajara to study Spanish; Bonnie and Turney
for only a couple of weeks while Joyce was going
to be in Mexico for almost three months. All of
them had husbands who were in other locations: Bonnie’s
was on the Pacific coast in Mexico, Turney’s
husband was vacationing in Texas while Joyce’s
husband was back in Ottawa, teaching at a university.
Some of my Canadian friends in front of the Guadalajara
language school
It was great seeing such a cool and adventurous
group of women expanding their horizons in Mexico.
Bonnie and Turney were staying together at a small
hotel called “Mi Viejo Refugio” which
was less than 10 minutes from the language school
and they loved staying there. Most of the language
students at the Guadalajara Language Center stay,
like me, in a homestay program with a local family.
This is the most reasonably priced option and also
usually provides you with at least two meals a day.
Bonnie and Turney were staying in a bed and breakfast-type
arrangement while Joyce was staying with a friend
in an apartment. The Guadalajara Language Center
offers many different types of accommodation, whether
someone wants to stay independently or with a family.
I usually prefer family-type of accommodation because
it offers that extra level of Spanish immersion
after school. I do have to admit that this time,
however, I was traveling and exploring so much that
I have not been getting to spend all that much time
with my local family. But on the other hand I have
had a chance to explore many fascinating places
so far.
Comfortable sitting area at Mi Viejo Refugio
The four of us talked a lot about travel and these
ladies were quite a well-travelled bunch. We touched
on our favourite destinations – always a difficult
choice – and what it takes to be a good travel
partner. I myself have had some interesting experiences
with incompatible travel partners that I would rather
avoid in the future…
We enjoyed a great meal: the ladies had picked
up some delicious rotisserie chicken, juice, rice
and potatoes and they had bought some fresh tomatoes,
avocados and cucumbers in the local market. I had
bought some pastries and some juice on the way here,
and we were set for a great meal. Alejandro, the
owner of the small hotel where Bonnie and Turney
were staying, joined us briefly and welcomed us.
He had no problem with us sitting in his lounge,
enjoying our store-bought meal. I was planning to
come back and do a video tour of his hotel, Mi Viejo
Refugio.
Traditional Mexican decor at Mi Viejo Refugio
At about 9:30 our party came to an end and I started
my stroll home through the lively streets of Tlaquepaque.
I had met some great people today and really enjoyed
my connections with a bunch of adventurous Canucks.
