Tuesday,
April 11, 2006, 7:06 am
A New Language School, Visiting "Casa
Vamos" and an Evening with a Very Sad Ending
A new week began yesterday, after my wonderful weekend
in Taxco, and after a quick breakfast I took a taxi to my school
which is located in the El Túnel neighbourhood.
The school is called CETLALIC
Alternative Language School and among the many Cuernanvaca language
schools it has a rather unique place. Cetlalic teaches Spanish in
a historical, cultural and political context and many of its students
are community and political activists. Cetlalic is also committed
to providing a language study experience for all groups and it also
hosts many gays and lesbian students. The owner, Jorge Torres, is
an avowed fighter for a variety of social causes, based on his family's
legacy in the Mexican workers' movement.
The teachers at the Cetlalic language school with Jorge Torres (2nd
from right)
At 9 am we started with a brief introduction and shortly after
we three students (a couple from Germany and myself) started with
our lessons. Cetlalic
offers grammar courses from 9 to 12 and from 12, followed by a práctica
from 12 to 2 with optional extra-curricular activities afterwards.
These might include museum visits, visits to local places of interests,
special lectures, movies or get-togethers.
Our teacher Mario did his best to describe the intricacies of the
“subjuntivo del pasado” to us, one of the more
difficult grammatical forms in Spanish. Instruction was held on
a balcony behind the school, overlooking a lush tropical backyard
with birds singing in the background.
My teacher Mario (2nd from left) with his colleagues
At 12 noon all the other teachers joined us and Jorge held a ½
hour charla ( a brief speech) about the Zapatista movement
in Mexico. This movement originated in the state of Chiapas and
is trying to address issues of social injustice, particularly those
affecting indigenous people in Mexico. Two other teachers had attended
meetings that are part of the tour of the so-called "Subcomandante
Marcos", a revolutionary leader who has patterned himself after
famous Che Guevara and who is doing a speaking tour across the country
to make people aware of the plight of people in Chiapas. I have
to admit I wasn't very informed about the intricacies of Mexican
politics, but I had heard of the uprisings in the State of Chiapas.
My co-students from Germany seemed to be much more knowledgeable
than I about these topics.
Palacio del Gobierno in Cuernavaca
As I was about to do more explorations in Cuernavaca, I was unable
to participate in the afternoon language practice, so I started
my 20 minute walk towards downtown and stopped in at Roxana’s
office at Tourism Cuernavaca, to work out the rest of my itinerary
and sights to see for this week. Then I took a local bus downtown
to check my email. I hadn’t been on the net since Friday morning
and it was high time for me to put myself back in touch with all
the important folks in Canada. Internet cafés are very inexpensive
in Mexico, you can surf the net for a whole hour for anywhere between
5 and 10 pesos (C$0.60 to C$1.20).
Having taken care of my communications needs, it was time for a
late lunch and I simply had some cheese quesadillas with a wonderfully
tasty green chili sauce in a local restaurant right opposite the
Palacio del Gobierno. After a little icecream break I strolled down
a street called Francisco Leyva to find a place that I had heard
about 2 days ago from the Californian couple that I met during the
bus ride to Taxco on Saturday.
The beautiful Casa Vamos
They had talked to me about Casa
Vamos, a non-profit organization that had been started by a
couple from Vermont, that was using a wonderful villa / mansion
to generate income for a variety of charitable activities that they
had set up. I found the villa at 56 Leyva, rang the bell and a Mexican
man in his 50s opened and I explained who I was. Agustín
graciously let me in since the Californian couple had already mentioned
my interest in this organization. He took me around the whole villa
which is very extensive and has several bedrooms that are rented
to guests.
The villa is beautifully decorated, has a living room with a high
vaulted ceiling, and interesting art work on all the walls. The
bedrooms range from a US$50 room with 2 twin beds, to a larger room
for $75, and 2 extremely large rooms for $100. All rooms have private
bathrooms, and some of the bathrooms have extremely fascinating
tubs that are completely made from local tile.
Beautiful sitting area at Casa Vamos
Agustín, who is the local caretaker of the mansion, and
I arranged that I would meet one of the organizers later in order
to find out more about this charitable organization and all the
initiatives that it is involved in. I was just fascinated by the
combination of tourism and fundraising for charitable purposes and
was a little sad to hear that the mansion was for sale. I just thought
that this unique approach of offering historic accommodation in
a beautiful Mexican mansion was such a neat idea for generating
revenue for some great causes.
Among many other causes Casa Vamos, which is part of an organization
called VAMOS,
runs a house called Casa Tatic that is dedicated to helping Mexican
street children while also functioning as an indigenous cultural
center. Vamos also runs cooperative of locals who produce striking
artwork, it provides leadership skills, literacy training, promotes
human rights, is involved in community development, builds schools
and community centers, and helps to provide medical and dental services
to Mexican people living in poverty.
Another sitting room at Casa Vamos
With all arrangements made for an interview and my visit at Casa
Vamos finished, I walked just a few steps down to my good friend
Marta Elena, who runs the Villa San Marcos
B&B where I had spent a few days in my first week in Cuernavaca.
We have developed such a wonderful friendship since I came here
and I thought I’d drop in unannounced on my friend to see
if she was home.
Sure enough, I rang the intercom and said that it’s me and
Marta Elena’s voice went up with delight, we were both happy
to see each other. We had a wonderful time in Marta Elena’s
backyard, she introduced me to all the various plants that she has
in her garden and showed me a variety of family photos.
Very sadly, the evening took an extremely unfortunate turn. One
of Marta Elena’s beloved dogs, her little pug Kissy, ended
up swallowing a bee. We noticed it when Kissy started throwing up
and walking around in a daze. Within a few minutes she lost control
of all her bodily functions and when Marta Elena held her up she
was just hanging there, limp, without any muscle control. Marta
Elena put her down in her doggy bed and Kissy’s belly was
moving up and down, her tongue hanging outside of her mouth. We
frantically tried to reach a vet, but all the people we called were
either not available or they were very far from our location.
Little Kissy
After about 20 minutes Kissy started to stretch and opened her
eyes and moved her legs. We thought she was recovering, but just
a few minutes later she stopped breathing. Marta Elena tried to
revive her, but to our great dismay little Kissy had passed away,
she had died from anaphylactic shock.
It was so sad to see this young little dog, just lying there. My
heart broke for Marta Elena who loves all her animals. She is such
a loving and generous woman, and her dogs received so much of her
loving attention and dedication. I embraced her and tried to console
her, but there is nothing anyone can do in such a moment of sadness.
We both were shocked at how quickly life can change and how life
sometimes just hangs by a thread.
I’ve been thinking about this all night, how one minute Kissy
was just a happy young dog, and barely half an hour she had succumbed
to a lethal allergic reaction. Marta Elena walked me back part-way
towards the house of the family where I was staying, she said she
needed the walk. I admired her, because she maintained her composure,
something that must have taken a lot of strength, considering how
much she loved Kissy. I can only attribute this strength to the
maturity of a woman who has experienced so much in her life and
I embraced her and held her tight when she left.
Events like these make you realize the fragility of life.
Useful Books:
Related Articles:
Mexico 2006 - My cultural immersion
experiment
Hello from Mexico City - First impressions
Hello from Mexico City - A skyscraper,
a little horse and a government pawn shop
Hello from Mexico City - The Zócalo,
the Cathedral, a healing ritual and a university dedicated to a
16th century female poet
Hello from Mexico City - A relaxing
evening in Coyoacán
Hello from Mexico City - Exploring the
Paseo de la Reforma, de Bosque de Chapúltepec and a nice
evening in San Angel
Hello from Cuernavaca - Arrival and
first impressions
Hello from Cuernavaca - Getting to know
my B&B hostess Marta Elena: A true riches to rags story
Hello from Cuernavaca - My first day
learning Spanish and two local icons: the Robert Brady Museum and
the Jardín Borda
Hello from Cuernavaca - A lovely dinner
in a garden paradise
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Las Estacas, checking out orchids and a meeting at El Cafecito
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Lake Tequesquitengo and a visit to the doctor
Hello from Cuernavaca - A conversation
with Andy Grater, local B&B owner and President of the Newcomers
Club
Hello from Cuernavaca - A presentation
about ecology at the Newcomers Club Meeting
Hello from Cuernavaca - Opening of a
South African photo exhibition and a visit to the Palacio de Cortés
Hello from Taxco - The city that silver built
Hello from Taxco during Semana Santa - The
famous Palm Sunday Procession
Hello from Cuernavaca - A new language
school, visiting 'Casa Vamos' and an evening with a very sad ending
Hello from Cuernavaca - My most intense
day: more language studies, 3 interviews, a guided eco-hike and
dinner at the Marco Polo
Hello from Cuernavaca - A day outing
to the enchanting mythical village of Tepoztlan
Hello from Cuernavaca - My last day
of school and a visit to Cuernavaca's Spring Fair
Hello from Taxco - An eerie experience: Visiting
Taxco's famous Good Friday procession
Hello from Taxco and Cuernavaca - Interviewing
one of the penitentes and enjoying my last day in Mexico
Related Interviews:
Presenting:
Ruben Córtes from Morelos Trails - Local adventure sports
and cultural guided tour operator, expert on Morelos and Cuernavaca
Presenting: Pablo
Buitrón from Fundacion Comunidad, helping local
women empower themselves
Presenting: Jorge Torres from
the Cetlalic Alternative Language School - Learning Spanish with
cultural, social and political awareness
Presenting: Hermilo Brito
from the Ideal Language School - Making Spanish learning fun
Helpful links:
Mexico
Tourism Information
State
of Morelos Tourism Organization
Official
website of the City of Cuernavaca tourism
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