Friday,
April 14, 2006, 1:52 am
Hello from Cuernavaca - My Last Day of School
and a Visit to the Cuernavaca Spring Fair
This morning I headed off on the Ruta no. 2 to the Túnel
area of town and started my last day at the Cetlalic
Language School. We had a very interesting day, during the first
part of the day we discussed the water shortage in Cuernavaca and
that the city is going through extreme dryness right now. Our teacher
only receives water twice a week right now for one hour each. And
even then the water only comes out of the tap in a trickle. These
types of things generally happen in the less affluent neighbourhoods
of town. At the same time, Cuernavaca is also known as one of the
cities in Mexico with the most swimming pools, so some people have
better access to water than others.
One of my co-students mentioned that in Mexico City there is an
extreme water shortage and the water is pumped up from surrounding
communities into the city. In one of the communities, a former agricultural
community, much of the water is pumped away to Mexico, so they are
left with the residual water after the filtration process, resulting
in a lower quantity but more contaminated water supply.
Beaming with pride after receivng my certificate of completion from
Cetlalic
After a bit more torture with the Spanish subjunctive we finished
our morning classes and for me this was the last day of school.
Jorge Torres, the director of Cetlalic,
called his team together and presented a certificate of completion
to me, which I very much appreciated. Following the ceremony, my
costudents and my teacher went on an exploration of the Museo Cuahnavac
while I spent some more time with Jorge to learn more about the
school.
Jorge explained that he comes from a working class background and
that his father was very active in the union movement in the US
owned textile company he worked in. His father and some of the other
union organizers were dismissed and staged a 5-month long sit-in
in front of the factory, and of course they received no salaries.
So Jorge had to start to work at a young age, in construction. He
also studied teaching Spanish as a Second Language and started to
develop his political and activist interests (particularly his solidarity
for El Salvador, etc.)
Jorge has been teaching Spanish since he his early twenties. At
two other prior schools he was confronted with some students who
didn’t really want to learn Spanish. They were more concerned
with the latest romantic conquests they had made. A frustrating
situation for Jorge who started to look around for other opportunity.
A group called the Committee for Solidarity for El Salvador started
the Cetlalic
language school and he began his work there as the school's
director. His language school markets itself primarily to activists
and to politically interested people. At the beginning running the
school was difficult since no one really had any idea about marketing.
Cetlalic uses the Paulo Freire method of teaching Spanish, which
includes learning the language in a social and political context.
It was interesting to find out more about Jorge's personal background
and what made him come up with such a unique concept for a language
school I thanked him and handed him a little souvenir from Toronto
and we said goodbye. As always, I took the bus downtown and sat
down for lunch in a restaurant called Jardín de Cuernavaca
where I had a simple chicken with French fries and salad and an
asparagus soup. I have to admit this wasn't the tastiest meal that
I've had in Mexico.
Jorge, 2nd from the right
Appropriately strengthened I trotted off to an Internet café
to check my messages and started to snoop around on the market area
in front of the Palacio de Cortés since I wanted to buy some
authentic Mexican CDs. I finally found 3 different types of music,
one is called banda which somehow reminds me a little bit
of polka, with its fast rhythms and brass instruments. A nice version
of oompah music. Banda is a very popular style of music
in Mexico right now and you hear it everywhere.
My good friend Roxana from the city's tourism department picked
me up at 5:15 to go to the Cuernavaca Spring Fair. We were to join
a lady by the name of Maria José and her TV crew who were
doing a special on the spring fair. Maria José hosts a weekly
TV show called "Tacos y Caviar" and is a local celebrity.
Clowns at the Cuernavaca Spring Fair
The Cuernavaca Spring Fair is an annual event and last year it
attracted 350,000 visitors. It includes various stands with different
types of merchandise, a food court and various vendors throughout
the fairgrounds, a midway with a large variety of rides for children,
and various exhibitions. This year for example there was a special
exhibition on Bolivian arts and crafts, there was also a stand illustrating
the operation of dry toilets and the overall theme for the fair
this year was cleanliness, ecology and garbage separation.
I had an opportunity to speak with the Head of Tourism and Economic
Development of Cuernavaca, Mr. Rafael Jiménez Salazar, who
indicated that the city is working on improving its operations to
become a cleaner, more environmentally conscious city and that to
this effect the city has put in place various councils to achieve
a number of goals to making Cuernavaca a better place to live. Especially
since the 1985 earthquake in Mexico City the city has experienced
a tremendous surge in population and the administration is working
hard on trying to deal with the immense population growh. Ecological
issues are also being paid more attention to.
The Voladores de Papantla, just before they launch themselves
on their ropes
Among the group of special performers was a group of 6 men called
the Voladores de Papantla. This is a folkloric group of
Totonac Indians from the State of Veracruz who are dressed up in
colourful traditional costumes. They climb up a pole that can be
up to 150 feet long, then they wind a series of ropes around the
pole. Following this they tie their ankles to the rope and jump
off. Then the performers "fly" around the pole as the
rope unwinds. One of the perfomers playes a haunting melody on a
drum and a flute and the musician is the last one to come down from
the pole, gliding down the rope from the top. One of the men stays
on the ground to collect tips. This is a phenomenal spectacle and
it is supposed to be an ancient ritual representing the cycle of
life that was first performed to implore the rain gods.
Some of the beautiful handicrafts on sale at the Cuernavaca Spring
Fair
I had a brief chat with the voladores, or to be more accurate,
with one of the voladores, since the other five men were
either too shy or not interested in talking with me. The young man
I talked to was very friendly and told me that they had travelled
even to Michigan and Maine to perform their unique ritual.
I also had a chance to check out the merchant's tent where a great
variety of goods and services were being promoted. I ended up purchasing
a little white handbag that was manufactured by the women's artists
collective from the Caminamos
Juntos organization.
Then, Maria José, Roxana and I sat down to play a "Lotería"
where every person had a unique picture card and there were about
30 or 40 unique photos that were being called out and you used a
beer cap to indicate that you were able to match that picture. Whoever's
card was full of beercaps would win a nice little prize.
Playing La Lotería at the Cuernavaca Spring Fair
(Maria José, Roxana & I)
Roxana and I headed out around 9 pm, and we were both pretty tired
after a long day. We stayed up and chatted for many hours afterwards,
and it was great to have such a nice local connection in Cuernavaca.
Useful Books:
Related Articles:
Mexico 2006 - My cultural immersion
experiment
Hello from Mexico City - First impressions
Hello from Mexico City - A skyscraper,
a little horse and a government pawn shop
Hello from Mexico City - The Zócalo,
the Cathedral, a healing ritual and a university dedicated to a
16th century female poet
Hello from Mexico City - A relaxing
evening in Coyoacán
Hello from Mexico City - Exploring the
Paseo de la Reforma, de Bosque de Chapúltepec and a nice
evening in San Angel
Hello from Cuernavaca - Arrival and
first impressions
Hello from Cuernavaca - Getting to know
my B&B hostess Marta Elena: A true riches to rags story
Hello from Cuernavaca - My first day
learning Spanish and two local icons: the Robert Brady Museum and
the Jardín Borda
Hello from Cuernavaca - A lovely dinner
in a garden paradise
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Las Estacas, checking out orchids and a meeting at El Cafecito
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Lake Tequesquitengo and a visit to the doctor
Hello from Cuernavaca - A conversation
with Andy Grater, local B&B owner and President of the Newcomers
Club
Hello from Cuernavaca - A presentation
about ecology at the Newcomers Club Meeting
Hello from Cuernavaca - Opening of a
South African photo exhibition and a visit to the Palacio de Cortés
Hello from Taxco - The city that silver built
Hello from Taxco during Semana Santa - The
famous Palm Sunday Procession
Hello from Cuernavaca - A new language
school, visiting 'Casa Vamos' and an evening with a very sad ending
Hello from Cuernavaca - My most intense
day: more language studies, 3 interviews, a guided eco-hike and
dinner at the Marco Polo
Hello from Cuernavaca - A day outing
to the enchanting mythical village of Tepoztlan
Hello from Cuernavaca - My last day
of school and a visit to Cuernavaca's Spring Fair
Hello from Taxco - An eerie experience: Visiting
Taxco's famous Good Friday procession
Hello from Taxco and Cuernavaca - Interviewing
one of the penitentes and enjoying my last day in Mexico
Related Interviews:
Presenting:
Ruben Córtes from Morelos Trails - Local adventure sports
and cultural guided tour operator, expert on Morelos and Cuernavaca
Presenting: Pablo
Buitrón from Fundacion Comunidad, helping local
women empower themselves
Presenting: Jorge Torres from
the Cetlalic Alternative Language School - Learning Spanish with
cultural, social and political awareness
Presenting: Hermilo Brito
from the Ideal Language School - Making Spanish learning fun
Helpful links:
Mexico
Tourism Information
State
of Morelos Tourism Organization
Official
website of the City of Cuernavaca tourism
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